How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP5950105 / W10727360 Door Switch

I ordered 2 door switches and 2 fuses. I replaced both upper switches. Upon completion there was a direct short when the door closed . I had photographed the 5 wires and was absolutely sure they were installed correctly . I assumed it was a short to ground on one of the wires . I removed each wire until the short went away . The wire was the wrinkled black wire that goes to the power supply . I removed the power supply to inspect it and found no problem. After spending hours exhausting every possibility I swapped the three wire switch and the microwave works. I am at a loss . The numbers on the switch were the same. I am an ASE Master Mechanic . No wires touched . They were tight . They were correct . The last step was to swap the switch . All is well . 

Replaced all three switches, no reason not to at the repair stage. Put micro together and it now works. Tested all three switches, they work fine. Disassembled switches, no welded contacts, evidence of arcing or broken springs. Problem is most likely the result of the cheap-ass assembly methods adopted by Whirlpool (Kitchenaid), everything snaps together without fasteners. 

I found a bad micro switch, related to the door safety interlock. I decided while I had it apart I would replace all associated parts used by the interlocks. This Whirlpool unit is 6 years old and I have had intermittent problems with it since it was new. I'm glad it finally cratered, so I could identify the problem. I watched a DIY video which helped a lot to dismantle the built in microwave, enough to expose the interlock switch's. I also took pictures of the wiring that goes to the control board and to the switch's. It makes it easier if you remove the control board and helps protect it from damage while you are trying to remove the switch's and housings. I think once you tear into it, you will decide to replace all that you can, and the parts are not that expensive. Good Luck 

I removed the face pans behind the door & accessed the switches & replaced them after watching a u tube video. All the switche are different so you have to make sure that the switches match up with the mfrs diagram. The repair was easy once you figure out what has to be done. 

Checked door switches with multi meter. Found that one of the switches was shorted between the normally open and normally closed sides to ground. Replaced the switch 

Looked on u tube to see how to get to the switch. Then replaced it. Now the microwave works fine 

I expected to have instructions with the package. However, Youtube could help. 

Replaced upper interlock door switch and fuse. The trickiest and most time consuming part is disconnecting and reconnecting the various connectors from the control board, and removing the plastic cover to access the upper support interlock. I found it helpful to take pictures with my phone to record the connections. The switch to the left of the upper interlock support was literally fried, and the fuse blown. Entire repair process for me took a little less than two hours, but overall still worth the effort. 

I replaced all 3 switches correctly and safely. At this point, Day 3, the open/close door error message is NO LONGER appearing. Microwave is functioning correctly. Broke a few plastic locking tabs but other than that, the replacement of the switches wasn't bad. Just have to be delicate on those plastics tabs. 

Purchased all the micros for the door safety system and a new fuse. Removed both access panels on the left side, changed fuse behind the top panel. R & R the three micro switches and checked the fuse on the bottom. Reassembled and powered up all good. PART NUMBERS ON THE NEW SWITCHES DON'T MATCH OLD SO PAY ATTENTION. ALSO SUPER EASY TO BREAK THE SWITCH HOLDERS, MIGHT WANT SOME HELP WITH THIS PART OF REPAIR. I BROKE ONE SIDE OF EACH SWITCH HOLDER BUT THEY STILL WORKED. If you don't already own one of these microwaves, don't buy one this is a major flaw.