Do-It-Yourself Story

I tested the temp probe first and found resistance to be ok at 1088 ohms (spec is 1000 to 1100 ohms) so that pointed to the control board being faulty. The board was easy enough to replace and took about 15 minutes to do. Disconnect the plug or throw circuit breaker to off. Use gloves to guard against sharp metal edges. Remove all four control knobs by simply pulling on them. Then unscrew the four black plastic nuts holding the control panel assembly in place. Flip panel forward then disconnect the two flat cables at the top by releasing the connectors on the board by pulling up on both ends of the connector body to disengage the flex tape. Remove the four screws holding the board assy to the panel and set the panel aside. Using needle nose pliers carefully pull off each of the solderless terminals and reattach them to the new board one by one. Then disconnect the white bodied connectors by prying on the release clip with a small flat blade screwdriver and reattach these as well. Make sure the two black connectors for the flat cables are in the released position by pulling up on the ends of the connector bodies to open, then insert the cables and push down on the connectors to close. Reattach board to panel using the four screws turning only enough to snug them down. Replace panel assy being careful to line up the rubber seal along the top edge. Replace black plastic nuts finger tight then the knobs. Check temps by using an oven thermometer and calibrate if desired using the procedure described in the owner's manual.