Do-It-Yourself Story

The top had to be removed but with the unit being 14 years old, galvanic corrosion had seized the screws holding the Burner Heads to the Orifices. I carefully drilled out the heads of the screws until the Burner heads could be pulled free. I removed the two screws that held the Burner control assembly with all the gas valves in place. If you open the top oven, there are two last screws that thread straight up into the top. So 14 screws in all. I ordered 10 new screws along with the Orifices that had been drilled out.. a 16K, 12K and two 5K. What was shipped was for Natural gas so I had to swap back in the LP nozzles from the old orifices.. but got clean new screw surfaces and new spark electrodes in the process. I removed all the spark electrodes before assembly and replaced the screws holding them with stainless steel threaded in with anti-seize. I used an impact screwdriver to get the old screws out so I could reuse the plastic spark shields. While the top was off, I hit some rust spots with phosphoric acid and sprayed with gloss black engine paint (good for high heat). I test threaded the 10 new bolts in the orifices', then bolted the tubes back up. I replaced the top and bolted down the Burner heads and burner valve control assembly. The two screws just under the front were rusty so I replaced them with stainless as well. All 14 screws replaced and anti-seized, as well as the five holding the spark ignitors. Four of the ignitors worked fine after reassembly, but the front right still refuses to ignite. No spark sound from that one.. but the rest spark so the spark module must be good. Apparently, I have to replace ignition switches too. That will be a cakewalk after all the prep I did to make sure it comes apart and goes together again. One note. There was a green ground wire with a washer under the back valve assembly that is difficult to keep in place as you replace the top.. It just sits there waiting for the second screw that holds the burner valve control assembly.. so I crimped a SECOND washer end on the wire forming a top and bottom ring that CLIPPED into place - that held if firmly enough that the wire was NOT disturbed while I juggled the top into place. That way I could get the screw through the hole in the top, through the ground wire ring, and still thread into the burner valve assemble, securing t to the top.