Whirlpool WP7527P023-60 Range Burner Orifice Holder Center OEM Part

The top had to be removed but with the unit being 14 years old, galvanic corrosion had seized the screws holding the Burner Heads to the Orifices. I carefully drilled out the heads of the screws until the Burner heads could be pulled free. I removed the two screws that held the Burner control assembly with all the gas valves in place. If you open the top oven, there are two last screws that thread straight up into the top. So 14 screws in all. I ordered 10 new screws along with the Orifices that had been drilled out.. a 16K, 12K and two 5K. What was shipped was for Natural gas so I had to swap back in the LP nozzles from the old orifices.. but got clean new screw surfaces and new spark electrodes in the process. I removed all the spark electrodes before assembly and replaced the screws holding them with stainless steel threaded in with anti-seize. I used an impact screwdriver to get the old screws out so I could reuse the plastic spark shields. While the top was off, I hit some rust spots with phosphoric acid and sprayed with gloss black engine paint (good for high heat). I test threaded the 10 new bolts in the orifices', then bolted the tubes back up. I replaced the top and bolted down the Burner heads and burner valve control assembly. The two screws just under the front were rusty so I replaced them with stainless as well. All 14 screws replaced and anti-seized, as well as the five holding the spark ignitors. Four of the ignitors worked fine after reassembly, but the front right still refuses to ignite. No spark sound from that one.. but the rest spark so the spark module must be good. Apparently, I have to replace ignition switches too. That will be a cakewalk after all the prep I did to make sure it comes apart and goes together again. One note. There was a green ground wire with a washer under the back valve assembly that is difficult to keep in place as you replace the top.. It just sits there waiting for the second screw that holds the burner valve control assembly.. so I crimped a SECOND washer end on the wire forming a top and bottom ring that CLIPPED into place - that held if firmly enough that the wire was NOT disturbed while I juggled the top into place. That way I could get the screw through the hole in the top, through the ground wire ring, and still thread into the burner valve assemble, securing t to the top.

I had to drill out the screws that hold down the burner plates which also mount to the orifice holders because all of the screws had rusted tight and could not be loosened. The drilling out part was fairly easy and once I had removed the burner plates, I could easily lift the stove top off and get access to the orifice holders to replace all of them. I purchased new stainless steel self-threading screws from our local hardware store and re-assembled the new orifice holders and existing burner plates. I was very careful in drilling out the screws and did not damage any of the burner plates. Lastly, I had to access the gas regulator in the back of the oven to remove the plug and flip over the plug to switch the regulator to NG. The burners all work very well and I saved myself $250-300 in labor quoted by a contractor. The contractor was also going to charge me about $60 more for the orifice holders than I paid for the parts from Appliance Parts.com

Ordered the parts from appliance parts pros and installed parts I did have to drill out the existing screws holding the existing orfice holders as the existing screws were rusted out

Ordered ignitor harness and two burners (Holder/Orifice) and with supplied videos spent about 40 minutes exchanging parts - saved roughly $500. Must say, great parts (look original), good price, easy web site and, most of all, helpful video!

Replaced holder /orifice. The only problem with this fix was all of the screws holding the burners in place were rusted and had to be drilled to access the part to replace. So I had to replace all 5 of the Holder/orifice. Relatively easy fix.