Frigidaire 137008010NH Control OEM Part

Replaced control board. Did not need Control Thermistor in my case, but I'm keeping it as backup. Got the Drum Belt just in case it breaks on me since the dryer is aging. To replace control board: Disconnect power and pull dryer away from wall. Take 2 black screws on the back off to remove the top lid. Remove 2 screws on top that hold the control interface on. Remove 2 screws on the bottom backside of the control. Pull out control panel and pull off terminal connections and push to remove PCB connections. Pry up on the outer edges of the control panel to release and separate the control board. Push button springs will want to slip off, so be mindful and keep a magnet handy to catch anything that falls (work on the control interface AWAY from dryer so it's easy to find anything that falls. Move over clear LED diffusers and control shaft. Do not rotate control shaft and pay attention to line up your old and new controls so that they match. (You can use a medium flat screw driver to turn your new control board so that it is in the same cycle as your old one). The heat setting should be either all the way up to High and will have the spring on the top side. Line up shafts and reassemble controls. Restore electrical connections and reattach screws. Its an easy job, but if you don't do this every day you may have to hook up and test to make sure the controls got aligned correctly. Other notes: Cycle selector shaft and plastic led diffusers had to be transferred. Don't turn cycle selector or you will have to re-sync them to match like I did.

I was afraid to order the control board because some of the symptoms pointed to a bad thermal limiter or thermistor and it was interesting that the dryer tended to work without incident on cold low humidity days. Happily, there were lots of repair stories like this one on AppliancePartsPros.com and in every case I read where the dryer would randomly beep in addition to the quick shut off the fix was always to replace the main control board. Of note is that the code the dryer produced in debug mode was not one that is on the sheet of codes for this model, so I think that was also good evidence of the fault lying with the board. (I have forgotten what it was, sorry, did the test a year ago.) After enduring the slot machine like torture of having to restart the dryer 1-10 times in hopes of it finishing a cycle I finally ordered the control board along with the thermal limiter. I replaced the control board first. I have some electronics knowledge and none of the usual suspects were present upon a visual inspection. No leaking capacitors, corrosion, burns or anything could be seen. This concerns me since I would love to know why these boards fail so often in both the washers and the dryers, but here's hoping the new part is a better revision. This replacement of the control board is easy, it is a total of 11 or so screws to remove. Just be mindful not to drop any screws into the dryer, get help online if you are not sure of something, UNPLUG the dryer before starting, and be careful of static electricity when handling your new control board. Also, once you have the control panel off I recommend disconnecting all the wires from it so that you can work on the board swap at a bench or a desk. Each button on the panel has a spring and you don't want accidentally drop one in a dark basement. Also, the two screws that hold the top cover of the dryer on are my least favorite, as they love to get cross threaded, but it is easily less than an hour to do the swap. After replacing the control board and reassembling everything the dryer has worked without incident for a week now. Like many others I didn't need the Thermal Limiter, but I will hang on to it just in case. Long story short, if your dryer is beeping all the time and changing settings on its own in addition to shutting off way too soon and showing flashing lights odds are you will need a new control board. It is a hard sell since the board costs half as much as a new dryer of similar quality, but way better than putting up with this problem for a year or more.

I watched your videos figured out what could be the problem. ordered parts Control Board ,Control Thermistor, Thermal Limiter. It turned out to be control board, but replaced other parts also, ordered new drum belt and replaced as it was showing signs of wear, cleaned lint from dryer housing and greased drum bearing. After doing all this dryer did not start did some more video watching on why dryer wouldn't start and realized I had the wires on the door switch reversed turned wires around and it started up work great.

Some internet research showed the problem with my beeping 9-year old Kenmore dryer was common on this model. So I ordered the recommended parts (new control board and thermistor), then also found and read through the repair manual online. Install of both parts was straightforward - I didn't even need the manual I printed. This was probably about a 30-min job; but while the unit was partially disassembled I took the opportunity to vacuum accumulated lint and clean all the places I could never reach before, so the whole job took longer. But Im glad I did that because that space between the drum and outer housing was full of lint. Having cleaned in there, now Im confident the risk of fire is negligible. I plan to clean out the lint annually from now on. The dryer operates like new again.

Replaced the thermistor and control board. Not a difficult job that takes patience and attention to detail working with plastic tabs and delicate electronics. On the first attempt had the cycle selector installed 180 degrees off. Pay attention to where the dial settings are on the old when you install the new one. Also, I laid the front panel on a flat surface so the springs and buttons didn't fall out when I took it apart. Thermistor replacement was very easy. The dryer works as good as new. Heats well and no more midnight beeping noises.