Frigidaire 5304508269 Gas Range Spark Module OEM Part

Replaced spark module - oven was less than two years old. Like a lot of new gas ovens, turning on any one burner to 'lite' sends sparks to all 5 top burners. The difficulty was getting to the spark module, as some generic videos show access to it from the upper panel on the back of the oven, but it wasn't there. Had to take off the entire top burner panel of the oven to get to the module, and then it was simple to replace the module by transferring the wires to the new one. I did see on another video how to remove the top burners (5 on this oven), also removing the front 5 knobs and the front trim panel that surrounded them - then I could slide the top forward and up and off. Important to turn off the gas to the oven and unplug it or turn off the breaker to it. Also,tip - put a towel in the bottom of the oven to catch any of the screws you might drop while taking off the front trim panel, as you will have to have the oven door open and there are a couple of slots in the bottom of the oven floor that screws will fall into never to be seen again (they are difficult to reinstall, and remember to fit the front trim panel into the two tangs that hang down from the top before inserting screws), and remember to remove the towel when finished so you don't have a fire in the oven when you next use it! It was a good project to repair the oven for about $41, saving a lot of money versus calling a repairman, and the part amazingly arrived from AppliancePartsPros by Fedex in less than 24 hours from when I ordered on-line, using the standard shipping!!!!

First off thanks AppliancePartsPro.com... Another project in the books... I ordered a new switch harness and spark module because I just decided the why not do them both. They arrived very promptly, uses very simple tools most people have I would think. After unplugging it and shutting off the propane. I removed valve knobs. Then the burners with a nut driver and two sizes of sockets. The stove top and valve cover six Philips head screws. Gained complete access to the stove top. Removed the old switch harness by pulling straight back from each valve stem. I made sure I understood where the two end wires connected. One to the spark module and the other to the stove wiring harness. This can be done very easily but you might need a little plier assistance getting that unconnected from the stoves wiring harness. If you never have done such before be gentle but firm take your time and work it back and forth and side to side pulling up on the connector. Same way when to replace the connector make sure it is fully seated. Patience pays dividends. Then put the new switch harness on. This was a new design - I feel it is a better design and sort of snaps into place on each burner valve... Simple design and easy to figure out. Then moved on to the spark module it too is an aftermarket part. And it went right into place. And very easy to transfer wires over... KEY HERE transfer the wires over to the same places on the new module. SO DO NOT take them all loose at one time! Pretty common sense. Transfer them over one at a time. But sometimes one just gets a head of him or herself and does not think. Think this all out and you will be way ahead. Then there is a new grounding wire included. You just take out a screw on the appliance chassis and replace the screw with the wire. The other end has slip on connector and its spot to land on the new module. (Explained in the enclosed sheet in the packet.) Took time to clean off the stuff the had accumulated over the years... Made sure the wiring was not binding up when I slid the top back on... Replaced the screws and burners... Total time maybe 30 to 45 minutes including the clean up... Sidebar that might help you in the long run. On this range you need to open up the over door to remove the screws holding the valve cover in place. If I have to open an oven door for anything I toss a towel over the slots in the bottom of the oven. If you drop a screw I will almost guarantee that they will go down one of those slots. The other thing is when tightening up the small stove bolts to the burners they need to be snugged up tight not torqued down and stripped out. Little common sense goes a long ways. All and all was easy - quick and saved us about six hundred dollars to seven hundred in fees just getting someone up to our out of the way location... Yeppers not kidding you there one bit... And parts on top of that... And any other fee they can figure out as well. One of the few down sides when you live off in the sticks fifty miles from anywhere...

I removed a few screw's from the front of the stove and pulled the top cover off the burners. The igniter module was on the left, just under the cover. I swapped a few wires around to verify the fault was indeed the igniter module. Indeed it was. I put the stove back together. The part number on the module didn't match anything online, but I found a site that said this module had been replaced with a similar part number. So that's the one I ordered. The new module arrived in 2 days. I took the stove apart, replaced the module, and put the stove back together. All of my burners ignite now. The wife is so happy. My job is done.

I disassembled the stove top, inspected the ceramic ignitor sleeve for cracks, inspected the lead wire for possible arc spots, and sanded all the metal burner parts to be sure there was a good ground, but still only had an intermittent spark. I then swapped the lead wire from a working ignitor and got a good spark, which indicated the problem was with the spark module. Sears trouble shoot guide was no help. Found AppliancePartsPros with on line search. Very helpful on line chat and Robin verified that the Frigidare spark module is identical to Kenmore so placed order. Used lowest cost shipping, but part still came in 2 days. Required about 15 minutes to disassemble the stove top and swap spark modules which corrected the problem. I do like the videos that APP has on line, but realize they cannot possibly show all models. The video showed the spark module on the stove back (which would require pulling the stove out in the floor) while my spark module was on the top (which only required removal of the stove burners and pan). This replacement would have taken me a lot longer to locate the spark module if I had not already taken the stove top apart for diagnosis. Perhaps there should be a chart by module number to give spark module location to help others.

I replaced the spark module as well as the wiring harness. I think it was the spark module that was the main culprit, but decided to order and replace both items because I did not want to find out it was the other one and have to wait 2 more days for the part. Now all 5 burners spark reliably, and seemingly faster. It was a slower tick-tick-tick sound prior to replacing the spark module. After installing the new module, the spark is brighter and faster. The spark module is physically different, so they must have upgraded the working circuitry compared to the OEM part.