Ge WR55X10560 Board Asm Main Contro OEM Part

This was a newer GE Monogram side-by-side unit that used an inverter compressor. I removed the inverter and used an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of each of the three windings. They were all very close to one another: about 6.8 ohms per winding. I concluded that the compressor was probably not at fault. The inverter kind of burned or chemical-ish, and, when opened, showed an electrolytic capacitor had burst. I replaced the inverter with an overnight part from Amazon. It was the same price as your part, but with faster delivery. I restarted the refrigerator, but the compressor became very hot and did not cool the refrigerator or freezer. I vacuumed the condenser coils, which were buried in dust. The signal from the mainboard to the inverter (red and white wires) measured less than 5 volts, so I replaced the mainboard with your part. I restarted the refrigerator, which began working properly. Total cost: about $360 (about $150 for each part, plus $20-$30 for shipping). Total downtime: several days, because I did a lot of other things that were not necessary, such as totally disassembling the refrigerator and freezer, checking each thermistor with ice water, etc. I think the thermistors could have been checked much more easily, without anywhere as much work disassembling things, this way: If the refrigerator and freezer have been set at room temperature for a while, you really don't need to disassemble the unit to access each of the four thermistors. Instead, you can unplug J1 from the mainboard and measure resistance from the common (pin 5) to each of the thermistors (pins 1 through 4). Just like the compressor coil resistance, the resistance of each of the thermistors should be quite close to one another, if they are all at the same temperature. Any significant outlier would need to be understood (is the freezer cooler than the refrigerator? etc.) and possibly replaced. All four of mine were each about 6200 ohms at about 68 degrees (my home's temperature). I wish I hadn't wasted so much time tearing everything apart and verifying each one measured about 16,300 ohms in ice water. I also learned that you can enter diagnostic mode by simultaneously pressing refrigerator and freezer up and down temp buttons (all 4 buttons) at the same time. This was helpful, but unfortunately, the mainboard did not diagnose its own fault.

Replaced the inverter. Fans were still running, and the motherboard was putting out correct voltage to the inverter. When I removed and inspected the inverter I saw that it had a brown, silver dollar size burn mark on the plastic housing indicating it had overheated and something inside had blown. Because of that it was not sending out the correct voltage to start the compressor (I had already checked for correct ohms on the compressor and it was good). Always check for the obvious first. Look at the front and back of the motherboard (main control board). Does it show obvious signs of failure like black or brown burn marks on the circuit board? Same with the inverter. Below I marked that the repair took 2+ hours, but most of that time was spent diagnosing the various electronic components with a multi-meter. I had never attempted an appliance repair of this magnitude so it took me awhile to figure it out. If I had to do it again, it would take me half the time. A cheap multi-meter can be had for less than 20 bucks and there are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to use one. Don't be afraid, you can do it! Also I must say that AppliancePartsPros low prices and liberal return policy was a big deciding factor on whether or not I did this myself, so kudos to them!

I replaced the 2 thermistors (temperature sensors) in the refrigerator earlier in the year and all worked good. Then it got warm in the refrigerator again so I decided that since my refrigerator is about 11 years old I will just replace most of the electrical parts so it would be like new again and I don't have to dig into it anymore. I replace the 2 thermistors (temperature sensors) in the freezer, the evap. thermodisc, the thermostat, the defrost heater, and the board asm main control. I had 14 people over Thanksgiving and it performed perfect. It's only been a few days since the repairs but it seems like new again. A note that I couldn't seem to find is that on the back plate of the freezer there is a rivet that does need to be drilled out in order to get to most of these parts.

First replaced temperature sensor and evaporator fan motor. Which did not correct problem. Secondly replace main control board and inverter board. Which did fix problem. My guess the problem was the inverter board. Fuse in main control board did not blow.

Compressor not running. Check power going to it and nothing. Tested ohms on the compressor. 8-10 ohms approx Lights and display all working normal so I assumed the main board was ok Replaced the inverter board. Confirmed there was 4-5bdc on the red and white trigger plug on the inverter. It’s a waveform that is there also but having voltage on the red and white wire of the inverter is a good sign the mother board is ok. I wanted to confirm the damper door was working properly. The damper is located on the top right side of the freezer compartment and it’s harder to confirm it’s functioning from the refer or food compartment side. Tested the 2 temp sensors and replaced anyway as a precaution. You have to cut out and re soldier them back in a shrink tub the connection for a clean install. You can use gray twist caps if you don’t have soldier. I replaced the main board as a preventative maintenance.