Ge WR49X10283 Refrigerator Inverter Board OEM Part

I have an 11 year old GE Monogram side by side built-in fridge that had been having cooling problems intermittently. The fridge would work for a day and then the compressor would not come on for 8 hours and temps would rise to the upper 20s in the freezer. Fans, lights, and everything else appeared to be functioning properly. It went like this for a few weeks and we put it off until the compressor decided not to come on at all for a full day. Being barely able to use a multi-meter, I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on how to troubleshoot the motherboard and inverter. I read 5.2v from j15 on the motherboard and ruled it out. Also confirmed 120v from the line coming into the inverter board. Messing with the inverter was the most intimidating but once you know how to take it out, it actually takes less than 5 minutes take off and on and all you need is a screwdriver. Once I had the inverter out, I ohm'd out the 3 inputs on the compressor and got 6.7 on all 3. Visual inspection on the inverter wasn't conclusive but from what I've read the most likely culprit at this point is the inverter. I ordered the inverter on Thu morning and it was in my hands Friday morning around 10am. The inverter I received wasn't the grey box pictured. It was black and had a metal plate visible in the back. I was also concerned that it was only rated to 133Hz while the previous one and the label on my compressor shows 150Hz. The voltages did line up and the model number did match the order and it came in a sealed GE package. I'm assuming GE re-designed it sometime in the last 10 years. It plugged in without any issue using one of the supplied dongle cables for the motherboard input. As soon as I turned the fridge back on, the compressor came on without a hitch. I took the old inverter apart and noticed the two large capacitors were blown confirming the problem. I'm happy to report the fridge has been running for a few days and appears to be cooling as expected but would love to know if there's an older inverter board that would be a better match for my compressor.

Replaced the inverter. Fans were still running, and the motherboard was putting out correct voltage to the inverter. When I removed and inspected the inverter I saw that it had a brown, silver dollar size burn mark on the plastic housing indicating it had overheated and something inside had blown. Because of that it was not sending out the correct voltage to start the compressor (I had already checked for correct ohms on the compressor and it was good). Always check for the obvious first. Look at the front and back of the motherboard (main control board). Does it show obvious signs of failure like black or brown burn marks on the circuit board? Same with the inverter. Below I marked that the repair took 2+ hours, but most of that time was spent diagnosing the various electronic components with a multi-meter. I had never attempted an appliance repair of this magnitude so it took me awhile to figure it out. If I had to do it again, it would take me half the time. A cheap multi-meter can be had for less than 20 bucks and there are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to use one. Don't be afraid, you can do it! Also I must say that AppliancePartsPros low prices and liberal return policy was a big deciding factor on whether or not I did this myself, so kudos to them!

Found information on youtube as to how to diagnose it. was fairly easy once I had the information. I replaced the inverter board. I confirmed that it was getting 120 ac line voltage, also confirmed that is was getting the proper control voltage of 4 to 6 volts dc from the the motherboard. then I verified that the compressor windings had the proper resistance of approx 7 ohms on all 3 windings. It was basically the process of elimination. However everybody I talked to said is was probably the motherboard. It always pays to diagnose it. Guessing could get costly. The part was the the exact OEM replacement part, and it was shipped quickly as promised. Fridge works awesome. Should I need the Motherboard down the road, I will be ordering it from appliance parts pros. Thanks again John.

I noticed my compressor was not turning on on my 9 year old Bosch B22CS30SNS/01. I tested the three pins on the compressor with a ohm meter and it read 6.7 ohms across any two of the three pins which indicated a good compressor. I then tested that indeed the inverter was getting 120v across the larger set of wires. Then tested the smaller low voltage input wires to the inverter from the control module located at the top of the frig and they read around 2.3v . So process of elimination says the inverter was defective. My defective inverter board is a "embraco vcc3 1156 06 f 13" the OEM replacement is a Bosch AP4397817 which cost around $300. I purchased this GE inverter board instead of the Bosch one because it has all the same dimensions, specs, pins, etc. You just have to remove the wiring harnesses from the old inverter board and move them over to the new GE one and ground the compressor directly to the frig ground nut. I suspect my old inverter died due to heat, I can see a brown discoloration on my old inverter due to prolong heat contact with the plastic case. This new GE inverter has a big metal heat sink probably because of lessons learned from past heat related failures. All in all very happy that I saved some money purchasing this GE inverter. I have a feeling this inverter will outlast the old one.

Replaced the inverter (again). Fridge is 9 years old. Original inverter lasted 6 years, first replacement only lasted 3. Appears to be frying the start capacitor(s), so I also installed a surge protector at the outlet this time. Don't know if it will help, but it can't hurt. I suspect the inverter design is probably faulty. GE used to build good products, but I guess that's a thing of the past. First time this happened I had a repair tech look at it and he wanted to replace the main control board. Don't do it until you've checked the DC resistance across all 3 compressor terminals and inspected the inverter. If you find brown, burned-looking discoloration on the inverter case, I can almost guarantee the inverter is bad. If you still have interior lights, the fan runs and the digital readout is still functional, it's unlikely to be the main board. The resistance at the compressor terminals should be between 6 and 9 ohms, and should match within 1/2 ohm for all 3 readings. If not, then the compressor is bad.