Ge WB30T10129 Element Radiant 6 In OEM Part

This repair was on a GE glass Cooktop range. This range has two indicator lights, a Burner On light, and a Hot Cooktop Light. The problem I was having was, the Hot Cooktop stayed on all the time (24x7), even when the cooktop surface had been off for hours and was cold. YouTubes that I viewed were all misleading on this symptom. They all pointed to the switch, which is the fix for the Burner Light staying on, not the Hot Cooktop Light staying on. I figured it out by going to the schematic. Diagnosis and fix: (Safety - remove power to the range.) Each burner module has a thermostat rod that independently controls the Hot Cooktop Light. To diagnose, you need to remove two screws under the front edge of the cooktop and lift the Cooktop (like a car hood). Support the raised top with stick, rod, etc. Each burner module has four female spade connectors with either one or two wires per spade connector. There are two large and two small spade connectors on each burner module. One burner module at a time, remove the two smaller female spade connectors and push aside. Next, use a volt meter set on ohms and check for continuity across the two MALE spade terminals at that same burner module. Do this for each burner module, once at a time. They should read open (no continuity) when the burner is cold. One of the burner module terminals will show closed (continuity). This is the burner that is causing the light to stay on. You have to replace that burner. The thermostats are not replaceable. There are two large and two small burners on each dangle. Make sure you order the correct size.

I easily unplugged the oven and unscrewed the top and those burners and replaced with new one. I plugged it back and tested them. both are working perfectly now. it was very easy and i did not have to pay for technician and labor.

Ordered the part, watched a quick video and had it fixed in about 5 minutes.

Two screws under the front edge of the oven, just above the top of the door, were all that locks the range surface down. After removing the screws, I was able to lift the range top up and prop it open. I then disconnected each burner individually to determine the faulty one, unplugging the unit in between each test. I located the appropriate part number from a GE online manual. The part had been discontinued but a replacement was listed. I ordered the new part from APP and it arrived quickly. And because it replaced a prior part and had a slightly different wiring configuration, it came with a diagram showing the new wire mount mapping. After labeling and removing the wires from the old burner, two clips were all that held it in place. I then had to transfer the clip brackets from the old to the new burner before clipping it into place underneath the surface. I connected the wires back according to the schematic provided, lowered the surface back down and replaced the two screws locking it down. The new burner operates perfectly now.

Unplugged, removed six screws, snapped new unit in, replaced screws, plugged back in.