Two screws under the front edge of the oven, just above the top of the door, were all that locks the range surface down. After removing the screws, I was able to lift the range top up and prop it open. I then disconnected each burner individually to determine the faulty one, unplugging the unit in between each test. I located the appropriate part number from a GE online manual. The part had been discontinued but a replacement was listed. I ordered the new part from APP and it arrived quickly. And because it replaced a prior part and had a slightly different wiring configuration, it came with a diagram showing the new wire mount mapping. After labeling and removing the wires from the old burner, two clips were all that held it in place. I then had to transfer the clip brackets from the old to the new burner before clipping it into place underneath the surface. I connected the wires back according to the schematic provided, lowered the surface back down and replaced the two screws locking it down. The new burner operates perfectly now.