Ge WD21X10261 Interlock Switch OEM Part

The full story: Dishwasher stopped running mid-cycle. When I first began troubleshooting I tried manually advancing the timer knob, and the machine would run. That led me to believe that the actual timer assembly was bad, so I replaced it. The dishwasher ran fine for a day, and then the same problem came back. This time, however, I also had to push in on the door to get it to run. I looked around online, and someone suggested that the door latch wasn't closing tightly enough. I adjusted the door latch tension (that little latch plate on the inside of the roof of the dishwasher), and tested it again. It worked, but only for one wash. The dishwasher refused to run after that, unless I pushed against the door firmly while it was in its cycle. I took the door apart a third time, and when I checked the door switches, one of the buttons was collapsed. Since it was busted, I pried the switch open, and found that the spring for the contact plate in the switch had melted into the plastic for the button piece itself. I ordered two new switches to replace the ones in the dishwasher. Once they arrived, I installed them without issue, adjusted the door tension to reduce how hard the switches were being depressed, and then it was off to the races. She's run without a problem ever since. On a side note, I tested the original timer and found out that it still works. Now I have one spare door switch, a spare timer, and a working dishwasher, all for $120 and a few days of hand-washing. I also didn't have to shell out $500 for a new machine. In my book, that's a win!

I could hear the dryer motor hum, but it would not run. There was nothing obstructing the motor from turning freely so I assumed I needed a new motor. I went ahead and ordered a new pulley switch to change out while I was in there just in case. The parts arrived faster than expected. I changed the switch first and then checked the old motor which surprisingly fired right up. Now I have to decide whether to return the new motor or keep it as a spare.

Replaced tension arm switch

When operating door switch, the dishwasher would work intermittently. I removed the door inner liner and checked: my model had two switches side by side. One was obviously bad: the switch button was pushed in and would not spring out. The other looked OK. I ordered two switches on a Monday and Tuesday evening they arrived. I popped them in taking about 20 minutes total and back in business. The exploded views of parts shown on the Appliance Parts Pros site is a real help in identifying parts and part numbers.

Belt was good. Board was sending 110V to the motor area. On schematic I found "Idle switch". I found it on the bottom by the idler wheel lever. On the website it is called Interlock switch - took time to figure out that it is the same thing. Shorting the switch proved to me that the switch is the problem, not the motor.