How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP3994765 / WD21X10261 Interlock Switch

The full story: Dishwasher stopped running mid-cycle. When I first began troubleshooting I tried manually advancing the timer knob, and the machine would run. That led me to believe that the actual timer assembly was bad, so I replaced it. The dishwasher ran fine for a day, and then the same problem came back. This time, however, I also had to push in on the door to get it to run. I looked around online, and someone suggested that the door latch wasn't closing tightly enough. I adjusted the door latch tension (that little latch plate on the inside of the roof of the dishwasher), and tested it again. It worked, but only for one wash. The dishwasher refused to run after that, unless I pushed against the door firmly while it was in its cycle. I took the door apart a third time, and when I checked the door switches, one of the buttons was collapsed. Since it was busted, I pried the switch open, and found that the spring for the contact plate in the switch had melted into the plastic for the button piece itself. I ordered two new switches to replace the ones in the dishwasher. Once they arrived, I installed them without issue, adjusted the door tension to reduce how hard the switches were being depressed, and then it was off to the races. She's run without a problem ever since. On a side note, I tested the original timer and found out that it still works. Now I have one spare door switch, a spare timer, and a working dishwasher, all for $120 and a few days of hand-washing. I also didn't have to shell out $500 for a new machine. In my book, that's a win! 

I could hear the dryer motor hum, but it would not run. There was nothing obstructing the motor from turning freely so I assumed I needed a new motor. I went ahead and ordered a new pulley switch to change out while I was in there just in case. The parts arrived faster than expected. I changed the switch first and then checked the old motor which surprisingly fired right up. Now I have to decide whether to return the new motor or keep it as a spare. 

Replaced tension arm switch 

When operating door switch, the dishwasher would work intermittently. I removed the door inner liner and checked: my model had two switches side by side. One was obviously bad: the switch button was pushed in and would not spring out. The other looked OK. I ordered two switches on a Monday and Tuesday evening they arrived. I popped them in taking about 20 minutes total and back in business. The exploded views of parts shown on the Appliance Parts Pros site is a real help in identifying parts and part numbers. 

Replaced Belt Switch/Interlock Switch after testing with Multi-meter and determined that it was bad: Removed Dryer Top Removed Front Panel, including Door Removed Dryer Drum Loosened Motor Assembly to Slide away from side of the dryer to gain access to the Belt switch Removed Belt Switch Replaced Belt Switch Reassembled Dryer Tested and dryer functioned as expected. 

Belt was good. Board was sending 110V to the motor area. On schematic I found "Idle switch". I found it on the bottom by the idler wheel lever. On the website it is called Interlock switch - took time to figure out that it is the same thing. Shorting the switch proved to me that the switch is the problem, not the motor. 

Replaced the belt interlock switch. It was a very easy repair to make as I followed the helpful videos online. Each step was clearly described and everything progressed just as shown in the video. 

After replacing the belt less than a year ago, when it broke again we started to think something may be going on with the idler pulley. Ordered a new belt and pulley wheel, only to have the belt break again the very next day. After a call to customer service explaining the situation, they replaced the belt and pulley wheel which were both under warranty, and suggested replacing the arm itself. We also had to replace the interlock switch. Parts arrived quickly. The repair itself took about an hour and a half. If you aren’t experienced with these sort of repairs I highly suggest taking pictures of all the wire connections before you start unplugging them (especially the door which HAS to be unplugged in order to slide the motor out). That turned out to be a lifesaver when putting everything back together. I ended up replacing the pulley arm which seemed to have warped a bit, but keeping the original wheel on there. The replacement wheel didn’t seem to fit as well as the original and the original showed no signs of wear. I also added a generous amount of lubricant grease (Lucas oil Red n tacky from Lowe’s) to the pulley arm where the wheel sits, as there was some there when the dryer was new. Dryer is back to work. All in all it was a easy repair if you have all the right tools (I used 4 different screwdrivers and a pair of needle nose pliers). 

Replace the interlock switch that was stuck in the closed position. Switch protects the dryer in case of the belt breaking. Followed directions on your video. Only tool needed was a screwdriver. The hardest part of the entire job was to determine the cause of the problem and obtain the correct part. 

Easy took 15 minutes You guys are amazing!