Ge WH22X35757 Main User Interface Control Board OEM Part

I opened the cover panel of the control board. I visually checked for burns on the board and verified all connectors were firmly seated. I opened the bottom of the unit, and I saw the service manual in a zip-lock bag. From this manual, I verified that the drain pump resistance is good, the start capacitor is good, and the lid switch is good. I entered diagnostic service mode. Persistent alarms are 4 and 25.Error 4 means Reset Monitor, while Error 25 means Pressure Sensor Dropout. I successfully tested the Pressure Sensor (10), Recirculate Pump (11), Lid Switch (13), Spin (14), and Agitate (15). These tests indicate the main pump and belt work. The Drain Pump (12) test failed. At this point, I was confident about the drain pump. As an additional test, I used a voltmeter to measure the AC voltage to the drain pump. While in diagnostics mode, I initiated the Drain Pump test and verified that AC power was present, but the drain pump did not turn on (I heard a buzzing noise). I ordered (the evening of Nov 7) the appropriate drain pump. I also ordered the control board - I came across a similar story where the customer replaced the control board. Solution: The parts arrived Nov 9 - fast shipping!. I replaced the drain pump first. Entered service diagnostics mode and successfully tested the drain pump. I was confident at this point that it was fixed. I verified that the washer now works. Now I will have to return the control board. Overall, the website is very helpful, especially the stories posted by other users. This encouraged me to post my own story, hopeful that someone would find it useful. Ronnel L. E. Patchogue. NY

The instructions provided dealt with programming the board "personality" (i.e., setting the machine model) once installed. It had nothing on the actual physical installation. YouTube videos were of minimal assistance since my exact brand/model year wasn't shown and happened to come apart slightly differently. However, the basics of the repair were clear: - unplug the machine, remove the bolts holding the top together (in my case, a pair of long bolts holding the top onto the machine, and 4 smaller bolts holding the back panel on for easier access... which I didn't realize until I was 2/3 of the way through the disconnect) - disconnect all of the current connections; I was worried about tracking which connector went into which slot, but it really is not necessary because every connector is unique. You can't plug them into the wrong slot. A few were a bit challenging to remove, though, while trying to be careful not to apply too much force, and one tube was short enough that the whole setup had to be pretty close to its final position in order to reconnect it - remove the 5 bolts holding the board onto the machine's top - take the old control board out, put the old one in, reset the control board bolts, and insert all the new connectors (be careful not to tangle the wires or something may end up too tight for flexibility, carefully put the whole thing back into place and put the external bolts in place - plug it in, follow the instructions for setting the personality (mine defaulted to the right setting), and good to go! - reverse the process - put the bollts back into the board.

Replaced the lid lock 1st which fixed the lid not closed error but the machine would still not drain or spin. Replaced the control board next and now the machine works as it should.

The board arrived already in Field Service mode, which we did not realize initially, until we received a technical document from AppliancePartsPros.com This was exhibited by all the lights flashing on and off on the washer. Once we realized the board was in this mode, We pressed the start button until we got to number 6 in the Estimated Time Remaining window(whiich was the "Personality" for our washer). Once we selected the number 6, we pressed and held the start button for 3 seconds. The Estimated Time Remaining went black. We then pressed the Power button, and the washer worked as it should have. I hope this helps others, because we were totally confused when we initially saw alll the lights blinking on and off. I will add that you need to take a picture of the connections on your board before replacing it with the new board. The connectors can be difficult to remove.

After looking online for similar problems, most answers suggested replacing the Control Board. Very easy to replace, a total of 5 or 6 bolts to remove it after unplugging everything. To make unplugging things easier it helps to depress the locking tab and then pull, not both at the same time. Otherwise, the connectors only go in one slot. Just pay attention to your orange sensor tube and make sure it goes back on the board. Access to the panel is also very easy and uses the same size bolt, you will need a longish screwdriver and nut driver. Just look on the back top of the washer, remove two bolts, one on each side, slide it to the side and remove the metal backing. The top then slides to the slide and pulls forward. Don’t pull hard to avoid damaging any connectors.