Lg 6500EL3001A Dryer Moisture Sensor Bar OEM Part

After I cleaned out the typical 1.5 pounds of lint from the vent, ( I do it every 2 months), I went searching for a solution. I found 6 possible causes on this site and purchased everything except a new burner; I wasn't going to go that far. Let the fun begin. Since my vacuum was still nearby, I thought I was ready for anything. Wrong. After I watched all the videos again for reassurance, I went in with screwdriver in hand and laptop nearby. I removed the top and looked inside. Don't be fooled, the lint basket doesn't get it all. After I got everything removed to get to the real workings of the dryer, I spent 20 minutes sucking up anything that moved, and somethings that didn't. I replaced all the thermostats and both moisture sensor bars. They all went smoothly except for the high temp thermostat. This part and the old parts didn't have any real identifying marking on them that let me know which terminal was up. So, I went to the laptop. For those who don't know, there is a live chat section on this website. I asked the technician, Joy if it mattered which terminal went up. She didn't think so, reaffirming my hunch so I quickly got it replaced. The only real problem I had was getting the drive belt routed correctly back on the idler and the motor pulley. The video was confusing for me cause the camera was showing the operation from the back of the dryer so everything was backward for me. Stupid repairman I guess, I needed a beer badly but I wasn't going to let it defeat me. Well got it back together, plugged it in and NOTHING. Left it till morning, it was 11:00 pm and the wife wanted to sleep. I was fixing it in the bedroom where there was more room to spread out. This morning I opened up the top again and checked the control panel. One of the wires had come off the terminal, wasn't locked in from the late night before. Reset it, reassembled, plugged it in, and now its drying clothes so fast it's a whole new machine. The videos are great and the assistance is superb. I will be looking here for all my repair jobs in the future. One suggestion, make a video using a "used" machine so we can have an idea what may be waiting for us. I could have used reinforcements.

I have the optional steam feature on my dryer. There were some differences from the video. It was the high-limit thermostat. I found the appliance parts pros website and found their list of parts that were most likely to be the problem. Reviewed a repair video and it seemed to be very clear, well produced. One of the stories I read on the site mentioned ordering the 4 most likely parts for around $50. That made sense to me so I did that. Later, I found the LG service manual online - the dryer actually has a pretty comprehensive set of diagnostic tests that you can run from the control panel; I probably could have identified the specific part that failed and ordered just that. But I don’t regret ordering all 4 parts - the parts are pretty cheap and it’s a lot of disassembly to get to them - might as well replace them all while you’re in there. The service manual also described how to test each part with a multimeter. It was helpful to know that one of the parts, the hi-limit thermostat really was bad. Nice to know you are going on more than hope when you put it back together. I followed the video on my phone, very helpful. Some of the screws on my machine were very tight. I’ve learned from experience to brace the work piece against something solid, put the palm of my hand on the end of the screw driver, put my weight into it and turn very, very slowly until you hear/feel the screw turn. It would have been really easy to strip some of the screw heads otherwise - not the end of the world but a pain that might cost you a trip to the hardware store for another tool to remove the stripped screw. As I removed the screws, I tore up strips of paper, wrote down the name of the part I was removing, and taped the screws to it. They aren’t all the same and this made reassembly a lot easier. The steam dryer has some differences from the model in the video. The position/number of connectors on the back of the control panel is different but you still disconnect all of them. I took pictures of cables before disconnecting in case something wasn’t clear during reassembly. The way the wiring harness is clipped to the brace is different - a single zip-tie with a locking nub on it. squeeze the nub on the back of the brace and gently pull harness away from brace. Brace looks different and screws were a little different. There is a rack of components front-to-back on the left side (facing front of dryer) right behind the drawer with the water container. You can leave the internal parts alone but you need to remove the drawer. There is a big locking tab on the bottom in the back - just reach in to drawer and push down to pull drawer out. When you do, you’ll see two screws in the front of the control panel. These aren’t mentioned in the video and you have to remove them to remove them to remove the control panel. Requires slightly more care lifting the drum out because you have to guide it out under the steam equipment. Beyond those minor differences, I did what the video said and everything went smoothly. I suggest using post it note or similar to mark the front of the drum when you take it out to make sure it goes back in the same way. I took the dryer apart before the parts came and moved things around more than once before I put it back together. I think it matters which way it goes - not sure - but better safe than sorry. You can’t really see what’s going on with motor and idler pulley with the drum in place - I put it back on by feel. Then I stuck my phone in there and took some pictures to verify I had it on right. When I put it back together and plugged it back in, everything looked good - powered up, etc... until I hit the start button. The time flashed and the dryer didn’t start. The service manual came in handy again. It explains how to enter the dryers diagnostic mode. As soon as I did that, I got an error code indicating that the door was open, it wasn’t. Took the top back off and found that I’d missed one of the plugs connecting to the control panel. Plugged that in, put everything back together and we have our dryer back working again. Pretty easy to do, took more time just because It was new to me and I was being careful. I took a lot lint out of the vent. I think that’s why the hi-limit switch died. Gotta clean the vent more often.

After reading several stories online about what to replace to fix the issue with my dryer not completely drying my clothes I decided to purchase a heating assembly, a sensor and a thermistor. I am not sure which one of these three pieces corrected the issue, but my dryer is back to drying my clothes as it should. The Youtube video's are priceless in helping to find and replace the parts.

Replaced the moisture sensors along with 3 thermostats, in addition I replaced the felt drum seals ( I was getting lint around and on top of the dryer), drum belt, door seal, drum rollers and pully. It was easy to do and good instructions on videos. Parts were perfect replacements and delivery was exceptional. Now my 9 year old LG dryer is back to new and drys clothes perferctly. Thanks for the great parts, and video instructions.

Replaced dryer motor and idled pulley. The motor went south on us. I pulled the dryer apart. They are pretty easy to work on. I didn't look up any instructions. I paid $180 for the motor, a new idler pulley and a sensor bar plus the $25 for the 1 day shipping. Overall the repair was pretty straight forward. The longest part was giving everything I good cleaning inside the dryer. I would do this again and I plan to use this company in the near future to replace the bearings on my washing machine. This dryer is 10 years old. If I can get another 4 or 5 years out of it I will be really happy.