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Customer Questions and Answers for Sensor by Frigidaire

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Frigidaire
Part Number: OEM10741035
Manufacturer Part Number: 154473901

Questions & Answers

For Frigidaire Sensor (Part Number: OEM10741035)

Paul for Model Number EWDW6505GS0B

My Electrolux EWDW6505GS0B dishwasher suddenly stopped drying dishes properly and also stopped to be able to do the Sanitize option/cycle. No error codes or nothing, just finishes with the clean message and no SANITIZE message on the panel. Acctually if dishes are to dirty, at the end some ones don't get well clean. I know that in order to accomplish the tasks mentioned above, the water has to be hotter than the one that is supply and the part in charge of maintain the water hot and make i t hotter, is the heater. I disassembled the heater and checked for continuity with a multimeter and it looks ok, multimeter beeps as long as I touch both ends on the place the cables connectors go. Searching the web I founded that the Sensor with Part Number AP3580342 is not only in charge of measures level of soil in the water but it has a thermistor that is used to regulate water temperature. I supposed that this is maybe the problem, could it'll be? I read a post where one person was describing practically the same problem, and the answer he received from you, although I really don't know how to check if the power coming from the control board is the correct one, I'm sorry but it doesn't make sense to me that this is causing the problem.

1 Answer

Paul, The first step in the process of determining why the heater is not coming on would be to see if there is power coming from the control board. There is a heater relay that you would want to check at the control board when the unit should be heating to see if there is 120 vac coming off the board. If there is and the heater is good then the turbidity sensor would be the issue.

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Steffen for Model Number EWDW6505GS0

It's a Electrolux EWDW6505GS The water is not getting hot. I tested the heater and it appears to be good (~12 Ohm DC). The only other element I see is what I found to be the "turbidity sensor and thermistor" (If I read the drawing correctly) which is connected with a 4 pin edge connector. Is this used to measure/control the water temperature? What terminals should I be testing with what expected result? I have a multimeter, but I could not find a spec of the device so how would I know if what I measure is good or bad? -Steffen ps: I had to replace the fan assembly before (~$100) and replace the door latch assembly ($40), both of which were easy to diagnose. But replacing a ~$100 sensor that may not be bad and I have no idea if it even measures the temperature for the thermostat control loop and an O-ring for $20 (!) makes me hesitate.

1 Answer

Steffan, Unfortunately the manufacturer does not list what the resistance of the thermistor or the pin out for the thermistor on the turbidity sensor. As for the issue of no heat would recommend to check the power coming off the control board to make sure that there is 120 vac from the board. If there is not then this will be a bad control board.

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1 Answer

Betty, With the element and the thermostat having been replaced but the unit not heating then this will either be an issue with the wiring between heater and the control board or a faulty control board.

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Bill for Model Number FGID2474QF0B

I recently experienced an i30 fault and removed all the water from the pan clearing the code. Upon re-energizing the unit, the error code was cleared and thus I selected normal wash and selected start. The unit begins the drain pump which runs for approx 45 secs. After a brief shut down of the drain pump, it comes back on for another 30-45 secs. Normally the inlet valve would open, however the drain comes back on and off repeatedly. There are no error codes. The inlet valve has worked without issue and do not believe there is a problem with it, because it is not getting elec signal to open. Why would the drain pump cycle on and off? Is this part of the turbidity sensor function?

1 Answer

Bill, With the drain continuing to run and the unit not filling with water and getting no power to the valve then this would most likely be a control board issue which will be part number 5304533996.

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1 Answer

Marc, With the CL flashing you will want to check the door latch assembly as this is representing the door being open.

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1 Answer

Nilesh, It would not hurt to replace the wire harness if there is corrosion on it and would be part number 154833101 for the wire harness.

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Roderick for Model Number FPHD2491KF0

This is what's going on. My soap dispenser , and jet dry dispenser will not operate , I have changed the dispenser twice , and changed the board twice as well , and still nothing , I have changed the Thermistor and Still nothing ! I was going over the cycle chart that came with unit , and the cycles are out to lunch so to speak . LoL I was doing some reading and came across this Turbidity Sensor , will this sensor cause the cycles to be out of wack , and stop the dispenser from opening?

1 Answer

Roderick, The turbidity sensor will not cause the unit to not open the dispenser and is a cleanliness sensor. It will measure how dirty the water is and would not have any bearing on the dispenser. If the dispenser is not opening then this would likely be a bad dispenser assembly.

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1 Answer

Terry, the thermostat 154290204 is a possibility, but not likely. The turbidity sensor 154473901 could be the more likely problem. The sensor assembly does two things, it determines the degree of soil in the water and has a thermistor to check the water temperature. If the top of the thermistor is coated with detergent or deposits or calcium, this can delay the temperature and cause the water to get excessively hot. you also need to have a water temperature of 120 dgrs.F. in the tub at the start of the cycle, so you may want to check the water temperature in the tub as well.

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