Dandy June 07, 2021 for Model Number JDS27GOP1BG Oven turns on and gives me a cross in the middle of a small rectangle box and shuts off . I have checked the elements and temperature sensor , they are good.
1 Answer Dandy, This issue sounds like it would be caused by a faulty control board which is part number WB27K5055. Read More...
Toney February 13, 2021 for Model Number 911-93451590 Our Kenmore oven beeped when it reached the set temperature of 350 degrees but the burner stays red and keeps heating and I had to turn the power switch off at the box. This happened a few years back and when I tried the next day it has worked fine until today. Could this be a thermostat problem? Thanks!
1 Answer Toney, as the unit is registering that it has reached temperature, the sensor would be an unlikely cause of failure. Based on the information provided, it would be recommended that the bake wires are tested for continuity to the metal frame after unplugging the power supply cord. If there is continuity, the wires and the element would need to be tested for continuity to ground separately to identify if there is a ground preventing the element from cycling on and off. If there is not a grounded part, the failure would be in the main control WB27K5127. Unfortunately, the main control has been discontinued and is no longer available. Read More...
Mike May 15, 2019 for Model Number 911.6424190 Kenmore I have this Kenmore range in a rental unit. The tenants have moved out and both of the 8” burners do not work. I had to replace one of the burners and the receptacle. After that was fixed I found that neither one of the 8” burners heat up at all. The light comes on but no heat. I was wondering if you could tell me how to test the infinite switches to ensure this is my problem. I found some information on testing continuity between P and L1, L1 and H1 and L2 and H2. Both switches had an open on one of these tests with them turned to the on position. Does this mean both switches are bad and need replaced? (The opens were in different places on the two switches if that means anything.)
1 Answer Mike, unplug the range, set your multimeter for continuity, pull one wire off of the L1 to H1 circuit and turn the infinite switch to the on position, you should read continuity. Do the same for the L2 to H2 side of the switch. If either of these checks reveal an open circuit, (no continuity) replace the switch. L1 tp P is how the surface indicator light is powered when the switch is turned to the on position. Part number is WB23M24 Read More...
Km August 25, 2017 for Model Number JSS16PW1AD My electric range's model number appears to be JSS16PW1AD, and the front large burner has been erratic in terms of temperature control. I ordered and received an infinite switch, but all of the videos show models with the controls in the rear and ours are in the front. I think this means it's likely that our model is older, so I have two questions: 1) Do I have the correct part number for an older version of this stove? 2) Is there a video anywhere showing how to open up the stove to get at the stove top burner switches? What's on the metal plate on the stove is this: Model: J SS16P0W1AD Serial: LR122066R Does this mean the manufacture date of this stove was 12/20/1966?
1 Answer KM, The large burner would use infinite switch part number WB23K5027, and the small burner would use WB23M24. TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL: 1. Remove two screws from each end cap. 2. Remove three screws from bottom of control panel. Control panel can now be rotated forward for additional access to components. The unit was not manufactured on 12/20/1966. This most likely would have been manufactured in June 1996. Read More...
Wonder November 15, 2016 for Model Number JSP26GOP3wh Looking for oven temperature sensor since temperature indication is way off. Thanks
Ned B. May 30, 2016 for Model Number Kenmore Model 9114654091 I have somehow hooked up wiring wrong in replacing control switch wb23k5027. Is it possible to get a color code for this switch? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Ned, I'm sorry but we would need the location of the element that this infinite switch controls to tell you the correct colors for it. The colors we can tell you for sure is as follows: P is Yellow, L1 is Black, L2 is Red, and the two remaining wires will go to H1 and H2. These last two will be the same color. As a note: H1 and H2 is the output from the switch to the elements. There is normally not a polarity associated with these connections and swapping their locations will not normally cause an issue. If the switch was wired improperly and a spark flew when turned on, the switch has been damaged and will have to be replaced to restore normal operation. Read More...
Jaime February 03, 2014 I replaced one of these in my mother's Kenmore range about three years ago to fix this behavior where the burners would fire up to red hot despite being dialed in to a low setting. When I removed the old infinite switch it was charred and burned out. Replacing it fixed the problem then, but apparently its returned. I haven't yet inspected the switch but I suspect it burned out too, since the particular model of theirs has only one large burner, the other three being small, and therefore it gets used disproportionately compared to the other three. What's the average lifetime of one of these infinite switches. I'm ready to purchase another but don't want to invest in one should there be deeper issues to resolve. Thanks so much for this great website. ~Jaime
1 Answer Hello Jaime. There is no way of telling the average life of the switches. Some last for many years and some fail quickly. If the switch worked for 3 years, it most likely just burnt out from being used so much. Read More...
Shar September 06, 2013 for Model Number JDS26B0W2WH I have a drop in GE electric oven. The two large burners are not heating properly. One only heats on high and the other will heat just fine if I don't turn the knob above medium. If I turn the knob to above medium it will heat on high. The two small burners work fine. So I know that I need to change out the infinite control switch, but my problem is that it is a drop in oven so I cannot easily pull out the oven to get to the back panel. Is there anyway to change out the control switch from the front so that I don't have to somehow lift the oven over the base board under the oven and then pull it out. And if so how do I do this? Thanks so much for your advise.
1 Answer Shar, We've reviewed the parts list for the model number you supplied and determined the WB23K5027 is the correct switch(s) to order and replace for the large burners on your range. You may want to try this procedure to replace the switches, "To Access the Control Panel : 1.Raise the cooktop and remove 6 screws from the Burner Box Cover, and lift it out. 2. Remove 2 hidden screws from the bottom of the control panel located in a hole in the insulation trim cover(one on each end). Pull the trim and insulation out. 3. Remove center screw from bottom of the control panel. 4. Remove three screws from across the top edge of the control panel and pull off the wire covers. NOTE : The Control Panel can be rotated forward by removing 2 screws from the mounting bracket(one on each side) that are secured to the side panels." This is an older range and there's not a lot of information available. Read More...
Mike September 04, 2013 for Model Number JBS23BYWH My girlfriend has an electric range/oven. The brand is General Electric. The problem is that at times the oven turns on by it's self. I have tried using contact cleaner on the switch but with no luck. The part number in the manual is : wb23k5o27 however your website says that this is not the right one. Do you have any idea what the problem is and if it is the switch what is the correct part number?
Barry July 02, 2012 for Model Number WB23K5027 I'm going to get the infinite switch as recommended. Re the install...looking at the back of the broken one I have, does it matter what order the wires from the burner terminal block are hooked up to the infinite switch. Looks like one wire goes to the bottom left terminal(1-H1) and the other to the top left (4-H2) but no sure which side of the terminal block they are coming from. I don't want to blow the switch by reversing the connections.
1 Answer Hello Barry. H1 and H2 are both hot wires and can not be reversed. You can hook them either way and they will be hot. Read More...