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Customer Questions and Answers for Ice Maker Assembly (Refrigerator) by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM20501937
Manufacturer Part Number: WR30X28693

This refrigerator ice maker assembly freezes water and automatically ejects cubes into the bin. Replacing a failed unit restores steady, hands-free ice production and helps resolve common ice maker cycling and cube-ejection issues.

  • Freezes water in its mold, then harvests and drops finished cubes into the ice bin
  • Controls fill and harvest timing for consistent cube production
  • Typical failure symptoms: no ice production, unit stuck mid-cycle, cubes not ejecting, or loud clicking/grinding from the drive
  • Works with the refrigerator's controls to pause ice making when the bin is full
What's included: Ice maker assembly. Install notes:
  • Disconnect power and shut off the water supply before servicing
  • Remove the ice bin and any covers; unmount the old ice maker and disconnect its wiring harness
  • Transfer any brackets, covers, or guides from the old unit if needed
  • Mount the new assembly, reconnect wiring, restore power/water, and allow up to 24 hours for full ice production
Tip: Check the water inlet valve and the fill tube for blockages or ice.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Ice Maker Assembly (Refrigerator) (Part Number: OEM20501937)

1 Answer

Janet, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty ice maker which would need to be replaced.

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John for Model Number GSH22JFRE BB

I have replaced the water valve and I have the other part ordered. I also forgot to tell you that ice is building up on the bottom of the ice bucket. Will replacing the ice maker fix the problem? i think my Ice machine is over filling, plus in the back of the ice bucket is freezing to a block of ice and the ice cubes are frosty and kind of sticky. John for Model Number GSH22JFRE BB ANSWER Hello John, the ice maker assembly is part WR30X10093], the water valve is part WR57X10032.

1 Answer

John, if the ice maker is over filling or has a crack in the tray, then this would certainly fix the issue. However, it would be recommended that the door chute is inspected for a possible air leak by shining a flashlight through the dispenser section and looking for any light shining through to where the ice bucket sets on the chute of the inner door panel. If there is an air leak, then the door chute spring WR02X10585 is worn, the flapper WR17X11653 is not sealing properly, or there may be a broken bracket.

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Sooz

I wanted to comment on my previous question for my GE Cafe, however I couldn't add or delete. I am Sooz and we did get our problem resolved. We changed out our ice maker blower fan, and the new fan didn't seem to work, just rocked off on and on. Now that was when we had the bottom freezer drawer open and then we would open the fridge door to check the upper vent and no air was coming into ice maker. We put the freezer drawer back together and then replaced the control board on the back of the fridge. We then opened the door to the fridge and still no air flow. We didn't think it was fixed, however it started making ice. We then had a thought that we hadn't seen in any blog that maybe when you open the door the air flow stopped so we opened it and pressed the door switch as if the door was closed and then we felt the cold air flow out the upper vent. Our problem was the control board, so now we have an extra fan.

1 Answer

Sooz, Thanks for the update. Glad to hear you're refrigerator is up and running properly. Most manufacturers have designed and wired the controls to eliminate the evaporator/circulation fan motors from running when the door is open, this reduces the possibility of the warmer room air being drawn in and circulating through the compartments creating frost and ice. You may want to hold on to the extra fan, just in case, or list it for sale on one of the internet web sites? Thanks Again,

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1 Answer

Sooz, Check for 12-14 VDC across the red and tan wires to the motor. If the power isn't correct, you'll need to check the wiring between the main control board and the fan, as well as the wiring and connectors to the dispenser control board and the upper and lower, left door hinges. Check and make sure the freezer and refrigerator temperatures are in range(frzr -3 to +3 dgrs.F, Refrig. 37-38 dgrs.F.) and check the ice maker door gasket for proper seal.

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1 Answer

Don, The upper opening in the wall and ice maker compartment should be the air inlet, the bottom opening is the air return opening, you may want to recheck the air flow. You'll need to remove the back wall of the freezer and check to make sure the evaporator isn't blocked with ice, a defrost problem, check the right side wall and ceiling to make sure the return air tunnel isn't blocked or iced over and make sure the freezer drawer closes and seals properly.

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St for Model Number Wr30x10150 GE icemaker

My GE icemaker has power and water. It's also properly responding to a manual test cycle as explained in your site. Lower icebox inlet port air temp is 17F and air is flowing into the icebox, though I don't know if sufficiently well (to GE's spec). However the air temp at the upper outlet port is above 32F. Ice bowl water temp is also above 32F, so ice never forms (I measured all temps with a remote thermometer with the doors closed). Does this icemaker actively (electrically) cool the ice bowl to make ice, or does it use *only* the air flow from the freezer compartment to make ice? I'm wondering if I simply have a cold air flow issue, or if the icemaker does actively cool but is faulty. Process of elimination before I buy an icemaker I may not need. If it's only cold air flow, where/what should I check for blockages and lint? Or for a weak or failing fan somewhere? I'll check the rear and compressor locations, but is there somewhere inside the freezer compartment too? The fridge is a PFCS1RKZH SS. Thank you for any help you could offer.

1 Answer

ST, This issue would be caused most likely by an air flow issue. With the icemaker being on the door there would be an ice fan in the freezer compartment that would supply the air flow to the icemaker. There are 2 vents on the left wall one is a supply and the other a return so that when the door switch is closed the fan will come on and you should feel air coming out of one of the vents. If you are not then the fan may not be running.

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Jim for Model Number CFSP5RKBC SS

This GE refrigerator has a WR30X10150 ice maker. The water in the ice maker will not freeze completely. The fan in the freezer is working and the air entering the ice maker is 7 degrees F. I do not know what the velocity of the air should be, but it is flowing. The round seals on the door are making good contact with the ice maker. A manual cycle causes the partially frozen ice to eject and the unit refills. It just never freezes and the auto process does not proceed. Help me......! Thanks, Jim

1 Answer

Jim, My suspicion is two issues. Your airflow is blocked going out. The air needs to circulate or the condenser fan is having issues or condenser is very dirty. Pull out the unit and verify fan is running and the area doesn't have a lot of lint built up.

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1 Answer

Sue, you may not be getting cold air from the freezer to the icemaker. Check the blower in the freezer compartment to see if it is running. If not you will probably need to replace it, part number is WR60X10330

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Jordan for Model Number wr30x10150

My ice maker recently stopped making ice. It is 6 years old and up until now it has worked without issue. I felt for ice and there was only water so I tried lowering the freezer temperature by a few degrees and this did indeed work, but the ice did not dispense. A diagnostic test, however, did force the ice to dispense. I suspect one of the problems may be a broken fan, but wondering if there may be another issue at play here considering the ice does not seem to be dispensing automatically.

1 Answer

Jordan, With the ice not ejecting on its own then this will most likely be caused by a faulty icemaker. The heater on the icemaker not working or a thermostat being bad.

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