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Customer Questions and Answers for Interface Disp Asm Bk by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM9616083
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10304

Questions & Answers

For Ge Interface Disp Asm Bk (Part Number: OEM9616083)

1 Answer

Corey, You will want to test at the water valve when the icemaker cycles to make sure that there is 120 vac getting to the valve. If there is 120 vac to the valve then the issue will be a faulty valve. If there is not power to the valve then the icemaker would be the issue.

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Dale B. for Model Number GSC23LSRC

Ice maker and water dispenser went from working fine to not working in the course of one day. All of the lights on the dispenser panel still work. The switch seems to work as the light comes on when it is depressed. There is no other noise or motion when trying any of the ice /water buttons. I pulled the filter because I was wondering if the water line was clogged or frozen and I know I should hear flow when I replaced it. There was no flow noise when I replaced it. The water line is on and connected. No leakage outside or in. The other odd point is that the refrigerator and freezer controls don't light up unless I press the turbo cool button. As a last resort, I unplugged it for a couple of minutes and plugged it back in. No changes. Any ideas?

John Ratliffe for Model Number LSS25XSWCSS

The ice maker and water control panel on the freezer door does not light up or work at all on this GE side-by-side. The light in the freezer comes on when the door is opened and ice maker is making ice. Problems in getting ice through the door have intermittent before this total failure (either not starting at all or ice hanging up very easily in the chute), and the solenoid was making an unusually loud popping noise when cycling. What is my next step or two?

1 Answer

John, If the dispenser is completely dead then you will want to check the wire harness at the bottom of the door to make sure there are loose or broken wires. If this checks ok then most likely the main control board. You also may want to check the dispenser solenoid to make sure that it is not bad.

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1 Answer

Hello Lonny, This sounds like you either have a bad connection at the dispenser board WR55X10304 or the board has failed. Check first at the bottom door hinge for broken or naked wires. If no problem is found, remove the dispense cover and check connections there. While there, check for about 18Vdc from the black wire to the blue wire. (Note the DC voltage at this point). This voltage should be supplied from the main control board at terminal J4-1, (black), to common J4-3 (Blue). If nothing is coming out of the main board, replace the main board WR55X10942C. If the voltages are present, replace the dispense board.

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1 Answer

Hello Peter. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the interface WR55X10304 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello DP. Based on the information you provided, the main board WR55X10942C is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. This sends power to the main board.

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1 Answer

Hello John. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the interface board WR12X10760 is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Pat. You need to check and see if the solenoid assembly in the back of the freezer is lifting to switch between cubed and crushed. If not, and there is power to it, you will need to replace the solenoid assembly WR62X23154. Also, check and see if the shaft for the solenoid is rusted and tight. If so, the solenoid will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello CM. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the main control board WR55X10942C is bad and will need to be replaced. This sends power to the interface panel. Hope this helps.

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