Ms. Charleen December 14, 2014 for Model Number Maytag---MCD2257HES SS side by side refirgerator is not cold temperture is at 7 what do you think is the problem?
1 Answer Ms. Charleen, You will want to check the rear wall of the freezer and check to see if there is heavy frost build up on it. If so it sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Francis November 29, 2014 for Model Number PSS26MGPABB Bottom freezer and bottom food conpartment work very good, but the top freezer and the top food compartment not coolinf thanks.
1 Answer Hello Francis. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/4220-ge-refrigerators-gs-ps-models-evaporator-fan-motor-test-replacement.html Read More...
Scott November 23, 2014 for Model Number PSF26PGTBBB My GE dual evap fridge and freezer were having huge temp swings. Up to 20 in the freezer and 50 in the fridge. The main board, temperature sensors (1 in fridge/2 in freezer) and defrost thermostat have been replaced. The defrost heater in the freezer has been on a couple times that I have noticed. The temp in the freezer has been more consistent but still 5+ degree swings. The fridge averages 6-9 degrees above the 37 degree default. Since replacing the parts above, the one thing I have noticed is that the compressor is sometimes not running even though temps are high. But, if I open the freezer door and push the door switch (or close the door), the compressor will immediately kick on and evap fan starts blowing - 9 out of 10 times at least. I think the compressor shutting off may be the key to the problem of high / unstable temps. What should I try next?
1 Answer Scott, You will want to test the sensors in the refrigerator sections. The sensors should read approximately 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at room temp. It is more likely that the sensor having a loose connection. The if there was an issue with the compressor then the freezer section would not work properly. Read More...
Charlie E. November 22, 2014 for Model Number GSS25LGMFWW I ordered part number WR55X10025, but noticed when I went to install the sensor that it is inside a grill cover. In your parts list, this grill is a separate part. Do I remove the old sensor and install new senor in old grill? Thank you
1 Answer Hello Charlie, The sensor slips out of the grill cover WR02X10647 and the new sensor WR55X10025 slips back in easily. Read More...
Dv November 16, 2014 for Model Number GSS25VFPAWW Hi, My GE fridge GSS25VFPAWW is 11 years old. I noticed it started to work much longer in the last couple of months than before. The defroster heater and the thermostat checked OK. I have replaced the heater last year so I knew what a frosty evaporator coils look like... There was some ice buildup, but mainly on the top of the coils. The top thermistor reading was 18.3 KOhms at 0°C, the bottom one 16.0 KOhms (0°C). Do you think I should change the thermistors or the problem is something else? BTW I didn't notice temperature rise in fresh food section or the freezer but I didn't measure them. After defrosting the coils it's working normaly again... Thanks in advance for your help! DV
1 Answer DV, The thermistors are within range of where they should be so this issue would not be with the thermistor. The fact that there was only frost build up at the top of the evaporator coil would indicate that the unit may be low on refrigerant or there may be a restriction in the sealed system. Read More...
Wanda November 12, 2014 for Model Number GSS25QGTABB Refrigerator about 6 years old. Beeping randomly while displaying error code tc. Replaced main control board 5 days ago and beeping and tc code just returned. Temp is set at 0 and 37 but temps are usually registering random numbers. Freezer anywhere from -9 to 1 and fridge anywhere from 39 to 34. Is the next step to replace the temp sensor? And if so, do I replace all three.
1 Answer Wanda, You can test the thermistors on the unit to make sure that they are good. The resistance rating of the thermistors are as follows: 5K ohms at 77 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees, and 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees. If not within range then replace the thermistor. Read More...
Crescentbay September 22, 2014 for Model Number ZISS420DRISS I normally the digital temperature control set at 0 for the freezer and 37 for the refrigerator. However, now the unit get much too cold, the freezer going into minus range, while the fridge freezes. By raising the freezer to about 3, I can keep the fridge to about 37 as a stopgap but bottom line the separate controls are not functioning properly. GE has already serviced this once in the past under warranty for the same problem. My recollection was that a circuit board was replaced. Of course, it's now out of warranty! Is this more likely a control board again or one or more of the thermistors?
1 Answer Crescent Bay, For the issue that you are having you will want to check the thermistors in the unit to make sure that they are within range. At 37 degrees the resistance should be approximately 14.4K ohms and at 0 degrees it should be 42.2K ohms. If outside of range then the issue is with the thermistors. If these check ok then the main control board would most likely be the issue. Read More...
Manny September 19, 2014 for Model Number PDS20MBRABB Change the panel control. Change all sensor freezer is working fine but the refrigerator temp don't go down or the inside of the it don't get cold. Any idea what it could be.
1 Answer Manny, You will want to check the evaporator fan motor to make sure that it is blowing. If the fan is not running then you will want to check to make sure that the control board is sending power out to the fan. There should be 12 vdc on the J2 connection from the red to white wires. If no power then the issue would be the control board. Also check to make sure that the evaporator coils are not impacted with ice. If they are then you will want to check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
John S September 18, 2014 for Model Number ESS25LSRASS Have a freezer that was a block of ice. Replaced the heater and the defrost temperature limiter switch. A week later same thing, replaced the main control board at that time, checked continuity through the heater and defrost limiting switch had 40 ohms resistance. This was 2 week a go. Now I'm told the block of ice is back. The only thing left is the thermistor. I am going to order it, but if I replace it, it should be the last piece of the puzzle. Just want to be sure. Can you help me here. Thank you.
1 Answer Hello John. Yes, the thermistor is all that is left on the defrost parts. Just make sure the heater and thermostat are good on the unit. Read More...
Josh September 09, 2014 for Model Number GSL25JFXBLB My freezer has had an issue for a long time where everything will have a layer of frost or just condensation on it through out the day. Recently I realized that that problem had stopped. There was no condensation. No frost. And the ice tray was never frozen in to a solid piece. Then I realize the defrost heater was bad, which I replaced. Now that the defrost function works again, all that condensation is back. Sounds like the temperature sensor correct?
1 Answer Josh, Based on the description of the issue, with everything having frost build up on it, it would sound more likely that the evaporator fan is turning on during the defrost. You will want to check this as it is the most likely cause and if it is then the issue would be in the control board. Read More...