Dustin September 03, 2014 for Model Number PSS26NSWASS Hello! My fridge is approximately 6 years old. Over last 2 months the fridge would begin to warm up to around 52 degrees and the freezer would warm up to around 15 degrees. Ice would also build up in freezer. After a few hours it would revert back to the correct temperatures of 37 and 0 degrees. After doing some research I had the defrost heater assembly and defrost thermostat replaced. Now, 2 weeks later, it is having same issue warming up again on both sides. What other items should I be looking at to replace? The temperature sensor? Thanks in advance! Dustin
1 Answer Hello Dustin. With the icing issue, either the fan motor is bad or you are having sealed system issues. You will need to check the fan motor in the unit. It would cause both sections to warm up. Read More...
Miguel August 20, 2014 for Model Number GSS20IBPC CC I changed 2 temperature sensors but it is working and doesn't stop. What could be the problem? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Miguel, This sounds like either a bad encoder WR55X10150 or a bad main board WR55X10942C. Read More...
John August 10, 2014 for Model Number GSS22JEMCCC Intermittent problem, since this issue occurred the control board has been replaced. This last time the heater and encoder was replaced after using a blow dryer to melt the ice on the coils and fan motor. About a week and half the coils froze again. Any suggestions? John
1 Answer Hello John. Test the defrost thermostat WR50X10068. If both the heater and the main board are new. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Ed August 07, 2014 for Model Number ge monogram zis420nma The food section is not getting cold temp 50, freezer is ok -12, What could be wrong? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Ed. You will need to check the evaporator for a defrost issue. If it is clear, then check the fan motor and the damper inside the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Teresa August 06, 2014 for Model Number pdf22mfsbww Do you have a video for a GE refrigerator on top with freezer on the bottom to replace the temperature sensor? Or could you send me info on how to do it. I have the new sensor and my tools ready. Everyone does a side by side that doesn't help me. Thanks
1 Answer Teresa, There really is not much difference with the change out of the thermistor between a bottom freezer and a side by side. The big difference is how to access the parts. To access the sensor you would need to remove the door from the unit and the baskets. The door is normally held in by 2 screws, one on each side, on the rail, lift the drawer out and remove the baskets in the unit. If the sensor is behind the rear wall then remove the rear wall and sensor will be accessible. Read More...
Skiz August 02, 2014 for Model Number PSS25SGNABS I have a GE PSS25SGNA/SS. The unit works great when I first plug it in, but after a few days, starts to experience wide temperature swings. Eventually water and ice are building up in the freezer section. I have already replaced the board, and did not clip or make any modifications, as my specific model was not called out. Since it seems fine when I first plug it in (temperature falls to set points), I'm thinking the issues may be around the defrost cycle. So I was thinking of replacing the defrost sensor. While I'm in there I think it would be smart to replace the other temperature sensor(s) since the unit is 12 years old. How many do I have, and is this a good idea? Do you think I'm on the right track with the defrost sensor?
1 Answer Hello Skiz, You need to check the defrost heater and the sensors. These can be checked from the control board. It is good that you did not clip any wires since you were correct in your interpretation of the instructions and no modifications should be done for your unit. I would also make sure the door seals and ice door are closing and seating properly in addition to verifying the voltage and polarity at the outlet. This actually sounds like a relay issue on the board. I know you said you have replaced the board but the new one could have issues, especially if you find the outlet is not wired correctly. Read More...
Chris July 23, 2014 for Model Number GSH25JFTA Hi. I have a HE GSH25JFTA refrigerator. I need to replace the thermisters. Looks like I need WR55X10025, but I would like to confirm that is the correct part for the model and if there is a total of three for the appliance. Your customer service rep says two total, your video shows three total, and a customer review on the parts page refers to replacing four. Can you help me with that?
1 Answer Chris, there are two temp sensors in the freezer and two in the refrigerator section. If you view the Freezer Section, item number 241 and 243 are the temp sensors for those diagrams and on the Fresh Food Section and the Fresh Food Shelves section item number 242 is the temp sensor on those diagrams. This should help give you a brief idea of where they are located at. We do apologize for any confusion. Thanks. Read More...
Ivan July 22, 2014 for Model Number 110.47512600 I have a Kenmore HE2 front load washer and getting an F11 error code. A service technician came to my house verified the machine and told me that the problem was the MCU that it had to be replaced. Just received the MCU part and replaced it with the same result. Help please. Thanks
1 Answer Hello Ivan, As per the tech sheet: F11 - MOTOR CONTROL UNIT ERROR: The Motor Control Unit has internal failure; repeating under or over voltage, or over current conditions. If failure occurs during high-speed spin the door unlocks after 3 minutes. Possible Causes/Procedure: 1. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 2. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU). Check the motor and do a continuity test. 3. Plug in washer or reconnect power. 4. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor. 5. Check the drive motor for powered rotations. 6. If the tub never moves, Replace MCU board WPW10163007. If the tub does turn, replace the CCU WPW10525353. Read More...
Larry July 02, 2014 for Model Number GE model GSS20IETAWW I bought a house with this refrigerator in it so I don't know the history of it. I do know it was new in 2007. When I plugged it in it appeared to be working fine. when I returned in a few days it was dead. That means no lights working, nothing. When I unplugged it and plugged it back in I had 1/2 second of power to the lights before it was dead again. I could hear a clicking noise in the defrost timer every time I unplugged it and plugged it back in. I replaced the defrost timer and the power stayed on and the frig appeared to be working. A few hours later I checked it and the walls inside the freezer around the top near the ice maker were hot. Not warm, hot. I could feel cold air coming out near the bottom inside the freezer but it wasn't enough to compete with the heat coming from the walls in the upper part of the freezer. I removed the appliance lights to rule out heat coming from them. It is not coming from the light bulbs. The compressor is running and so is the condenser fan, all are nice and clean. I'm not sure if the evaporator fan in the freezer was working, I will have to check that. I wondered if the defrost heater was stuck on or the defrost limiter was keeping the heater on but I think the heat would be felt lower in the freezer, not in the walls at the top. Now I'm wondering if it is the mother board. I don't see a defrost timer in the diagrams for this refrigerator so I'm wondering if the previous owner tried to fix a mother board problem by adding a defrost timer. I also see that the previous owner wrote down the ice maker information as if he did or was going to replace the ice maker. This is the area of the heat problem so maybe it is caused by the ice maker. Any help would be appreciated. The frig is too nice looking to trash it.
1 Answer Hello Larry. It sounds like the main control board WR55X10942C will need to be replaced on the unit. It does not sound like a defrost issue. Read More...
Robert H June 29, 2014 for Model Number gss20iembcc My freezer is -5 my fridge side is 60. I replaced bad defroster heater and the thermal switch. This unit is building up ice on the bottom and freezing solid over the drain hole. I removed the back cover and the coils are not frosted up and the fan does run fine. The freezer is holding - 5 set on 4 the fridge side stays at 50-60 no matter where I set the control. I am getting plenty of cold air blowing through the bottom meat pan air control. I can turn this off for 2 hours then plug back in and it will work fine for a day or two.
1 Answer Robert, You will want to check the damper in the refrigerator compartment to see if the damper is clogged with ice and make sure that it is opening and that air is coming through. The damper is in the upper left corner. If not then the issue would be caused by a faulty damper assembly and would cause back flow which would cause the drain to freeze. Read More...