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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM9556230
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10025

Fix uneven cooling or defrost issues with a new temperature sensor. Most DIYers complete this repair in under an hour with basic tools and our video.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (Part Number: OEM9556230)

1 Answer

Hello Michael. You need to replace the temp sensor on the evaporator coils. If it is bad, it can cause the issue you are having with the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Shawn. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Jcook for Model Number General Electric model PSH23PGSB BV

The freezer compartment has been fluctuating widely in temperature for several months. We first thought it was the ice maker as the ice would melt and then refreeze in the ice storage container in the freezer compartment. We turned off the ice maker to see if this was the problem. After that we noticed soft items in the freezer compartment on occasion. Not all the time but periodically. To refine the issue further, I purchased an EasyLog Data Logger to see if the freezer temperature was varying. During the first of two 7 days periods (not contiguous) where no one was home (no door openings at all), the EasyLog Data Logger shows the following: freezer temp set to -1 degree, logger data -4 to +10 degrees for 1 day and then the range jumps to +14 to +23 degrees. Upon returning home from the first week out, I reset the freezer temperature to -7 degrees. During normal use the freezer temp as measured by the EasyLogger was -7 to+7 degrees. We then left for the second week away from home. For the first 6 days of our absence, the freezer temp remained (again according to the EasyLogger) between -6 and +4 degrees. For some reason on the 7th day before we returned home, the freezer temperature jumped up to +12 to +17 degrees. Can you advise as to what is the most logical culprit causing this wild variation? Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Jcook. It sounds like it is going into defrost cycle. It is normal for the temp to go up in the freezer during these cycles. As for the issues you have been having, it could have been something holding open the door or not getting the door closed good in the unit. The readings you provided are good in the unit.

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Tom for Model Number ZFSB23DNDSS

My GE refrigerator freezer (model# ZFSB23DNDSS) is not cold enough, ice cream always melt. The freezer section keeps defrosting and freezing every few hours. The evaporator fan is spinning but very slow. Is there something wrong with the evaporator fan? How fast does it suppose to spin? Also there is a sensor in the same wire harness with the fan. Is there something wrong with the sensor that cause the fan to spin slowly? Does a slow spinning evaporator fan cause the freezer section to defrost and freeze every few hours?

1 Answer

Hello Hector. You need to check the thermistor and defrost thermostat to make sure they are good on the unit. If not, they will cause the issue you are having with the unit.

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1 Answer

Henry, You will want to check to make sure that there is power getting to the compressor. If there is power getting to the compressor and the relay has been replaced then the compressor is faulty and would need to be replaced.

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Sat for Model Number ZIS420NMA

My freezer is not cold enough to keep ice cream hard. It gets soft and I can't get it go get cold to the coldest settings. In the past, i would just vacuum the inside especially the aluminum filters of the condenser and the freezer would be fine after. Now the freezer will not get to the lowest temperature. The fan behind the condenser is working. What I have seen is the compressor looks like its corroded at the bottom and some wet spots below it. Last week I noticed the fridge side would have some drips of water on the top when I open the door. Is the compressor the bad part? Is the compressor a part that I can order and replace myself? I did not see it as available from you list (item 713). If this part is not replaceable, what is the typical cost to have the compressor repaired? Thank you for your help.

1 Answer

Marc, This unit does not incorporate a temp control. The unit uses thermistors to regulate the temp. With the refrigerator side not cooling, there could be a one of a couple of issues. First you will want to pull the cover on the damper in the rear left upper corner of the refrigerator compartment and check to make sure that the damper is opening. With the door open the damper will close. When you push the light switch the damper door should close. If the damper is working then you will want to check to make sure that there is no frost build up on the rear wall of the freezer compartment. If there is then you will want to check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. All of the thermistors in the unit will have the same specs. You can test each of them and if not reading within specs then replace the thermistor. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Tom, If both the refrigerator and freezer are not cooling then you will want to check to make sure that the condenser fan motor is operational. If it is not it will cause compressor to overheat and shut down. If this checks ok then you will want to pull the rear cover of the freezer compartment to check to the frost pattern. If there is no frost pattern but the compressor is running then the issue would be either a restricted or leaking sealed system which will need to be determined where the fault is in the system. This will be the case if there is not a full frost pattern on the evaporator coils.

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