Ronald May 17, 2016 for Model Number RB195BSBB My freezer has quit working twice now, Coils were frozen over both times , Will the Thermal sensor fix this problem?
1 Answer Hello Ronald. You will need to test the heater and the thermal fuse on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Brian April 05, 2016 for Model Number RS2545SH Freezer side works fine. Fridge side hovers around 55 deg F. Ice all over the coils. Fan blows fine when I hold the door switch close to test it. Took a multimeter to the thermal fuse and temperature sensor. Thermal fuse read 4.26K ohms, and temperature sensor read 4.22K ohms (ambient temperature around 80 deg F). Took the multimeter to the defrost heater and it read open. That's my problem right? Any way to test it besides the plug (i.e. bare wires/metal along it?)? Any way to test the control board to ensure that's not also broken?
1 Answer Brian, With the heater not having continuity then it would be faulty and would need to be replaced. If you have a calrod heater in your unit then you would need part number DA47-00322H. If the heater is built into the evaporator then you will need a evaporator assembly DA59-00234H. Read More...
John M March 15, 2016 for Model Number Samsung RS2577SL/XAA The first hint of a problem was things starting freezing in the refrigerator. Freezer is working fine. Now the refrigerator will not cool properly and stays around 58 degrees. I replaced the refrigerator temp sensor and when I plugged refrigerator back in the temp showed 73 degrees went up to around 76 and then started cooling but never much lower than 58. What is my next step?
1 Answer John, You will want to remove the rear panel in the refrigerator that covers the evaporator coils and check the frost pattern on the coils. It sounds like there may be a defrost issue in which you will want to test the defrost sensor for resistance and the defrost heater for continuity to ensure that they are good. If this checks ok and the coils are impacted with ice then would need to replace the main control board. Read More...
Gary W March 09, 2016 for Model Number RF266AABP/XAA-0000 Freezer does not make ice. Replaced ice-maker, valve, filter, still no ice. Ideas?
1 Answer Hello Gary. Make sure the temp is 0 to 5° and the icemaker is turned on. If so, you will need to replace the main control board if there is no power to the icemaker. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Craig July 19, 2015 for Model Number RS2578WW Coil froze up 3 weeks ago. Unplugged for over night to defrost. Ran fine. Now have ice in bottom of freezer compartment again. Coil has ice on bottom 3 inches and freezer is at 50 degree. Everything else is working fine.
1 Answer Hello Craig. If there is not an even frost pattern on all the coils, then the sealed system has failed and you will need an HVAC tech to repair the unit. Read More...
Amanda May 25, 2015 for Model Number RS2533SW Refrigerator is not cooling properly. Freezer works fine. Fan and condensor works fine. Unplugged fridge to reset temperature. Temperature will be stay at -10f freezer and 34f fridge. After about 8 hours, fridge temperature is 64F and is warm. Coils, evaporator, sensors were ice all over. Thermal fuse and heating coils do not produce ohms. Defrosted the fridge to thaw the ice, replugged and works for about a day, and then back to room temperature. Unplugged again, 34f lasts for a day. hoping its just the thermal fuse and not the control board or evaporator assembly. Thank you
1 Answer Amanda, You will want to test the defrost sensor and see if the sensor tests ok. It should read about 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If out of that range then it would need to be replaced. This and the heater would be the 2 most likely causes for failure. If they both check ok then the control board would be the issue. Read More...
Shan April 26, 2015 for Model Number RB1855SL My fridge kicks on and will cool to the set temps on the digital display. After that, the temp on the digital display reads that the temps are -2 & 36; however, the inside of the fridge and freezer are warming up. The only way to get the fridge to kick back on is to unplug it and plug it back in. I have replaced the main control board, the start relay, and the temp sensor in the fridge compartment. I have checked the evap fan and it is working. What else could be causing the fridge to do this? What should I replace next for the fridge to recognize the actual temp and to kick on when it needs to without unplugging it? Thanks.
1 Answer Shan, The possible cause for this issue would be that there could be a faulty defrost circuit. Check both defrost circuits for an Open thermal fuse. Access the main control board in the compressor compartment and locate the CN70 connector. For the refrigerator compartment check for an open circuit by taking a resistance reading between white and grey/ for the freezer side check between brown and grey. If a open thermal fuse is identified then it is recommended to replace both compartment thermal fuses with a bi metal as well as both defrost sensors. The bimetal is part number DA47-10160H and the sensor is DA32-10105R. If one of the thermal fuses fail, the unit will not come out of defrost and will only restart when unplugged. Once unit is powered back up the board defaults to factor settings. The unit runs and will go into defrost 4 hrs of compressor run time and never come back out until unit is powered down and back up again. This will occur every 4 hours of compressor run time. Read More...
1 Answer Ray, There are 2 thermals on this unit and both would be located on the evaporator in each section of the unit. The evaporator is located behind the interior wall of the freezer and refrigerator compartments. Read More...
Jerald F February 02, 2015 for Model Number rs265lbbpxxa Why won't my Samsung refrigerator cut off? It is plenty cold enough with freezing on refrigerator side. Temperature says it is 38 in refrigerator and 0 in the freezer side it is a side by side. thanks so very much
1 Answer Jerald, With this issue you will want to check the temperature sensors in your unit to make sure that they are within tolerance. At 37 degrees they should have a resistance of approximately 14K ohms. Read More...
1 Answer Hello Larry, Samsung recommends to run the freezer compartment from -2°F to 10°F for proper ice production. Read More...