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Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18040017
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8564543

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Electronic Control Board (Part Number: OEM18040017)

Mark T for Model Number KUDS01FLSS

Recently the Kitchenaid KUDS01FLSS6 dishwasher stopped in mid stream and the clean light is flashing and you cannot turn it on. I looked up some forum information on this and found a Kitchenaid site that directed me to try to reset the control board and it would not reset. It said that more than likely it was the control board and to replace it. I found the correct control board on your site but would like some instructions on how to replace it. Do you have any directions for this? Mark

1 Answer

Hello Mark. Clean light flashing, Press heated dry, Normal, heated dry, Normal, heated dry, Normal, and the unit should start. Let it complete and then it should work. If not, the heating circuit is failing in the unit.

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Dave for Model Number Kitchenaid KUDS01FLSS6

Currently my control board is an 8564542. which I'm abut to replace. In researching this control board, I was told by Whirlpool that the 8564542, and a number of older boards, has been super-ceded by 8564543. When I asked about the difference, I was told that the fusible link had been removed from the board. I think I found a reference about a certain pin on the board being removed. My question: Is the fusible link, referred to on the diagnostic chart, the square white thermal connector, I think the P/N is AP3178588, that clips to the board case? If that's the fusible link that's been eliminated, where do the two wires go that connected to the connector?

1 Answer

Hello Dave. No, the link was made onto the boards and is no longer put there. You will still use the thermal fuse.

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1 Answer

Jesse, You will certainly want to check the connections but you will also to check to see if there is power to the water valve. If the unit does not fill then it will not go into a cycle. If this check s ok then the issue would be caused by a faulty logic board.

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Evan for Model Number KUDM01TJWHO

Unit will not start when you press the start button. The door switch is okay. All lights work on the front panel. I turned off the power and disconnected the ribbon cable to the electronic control assembly and left it off for one hour. I reconnected the ribbon cable and turned the power back on and the unit works. I have done this several times and it repeats the above action. Is there a computer in there that gets reprogrammed with the power off? Is the problem with the console front panel or the electronic control board?

Mark for Model Number KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDP01FLSS2

Dishwasher stopped in mid-cycle. After opening up the door console, found a blackened/charred wiring harness where it connects to the control board (connector pins parallel to the relays in the upper right corner of the picture on your site). Control board is also badly damaged at the connector. So I need to replace the wiring harness and control board, at minimum. Are there any other parts that I should check for damage? UI buttons and lights all appear to function correctly. Thanks!

1 Answer

Mark, Based on your description and location of the damaged wires WP8534932 and control WP8564543 , we'd recommend you also check the resistance of the heater element 8194200 and the hi limit thermostat WP661566 and wires. We wouldn't expect the wash motor or drain pump to be the issue at this point.

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1 Answer

Hello Ray, This is going to be a heating circuit failure fault code if it flashes seven times and pauses and repeats. Otherwise it will be a stuck key on the touchpad. There are only 5 components in the heating circuit: the control board, the door switch, the thermistor, the heating element, and the harness. The wiring diagram should give sufficient information for troubleshooting these circuits. This will be on the tech sheet behind the kickpanel in a plastic bag. Be aware that resetting the clean light by doing the self-diagnostic cycle does not correct the issue and the heating element is the first suspect. The most common cause of this is a bad heating element. You can test it with a test meter. It should not read open. If it does, it will have to be replaced. The high limit thermostat is located under the unit mounted to the bottom of the tub. It should read no resistance and is bad if it reads a resistance or open.

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