Customer Questions and Answers for Dryness Display by Whirlpool

Chuck, It's not quite that elaborate a system. The bottom light of the dryness display is always on, top light blinks,with a wet load, bottom light on until cool down cycle. Make sure the metal strips of the sensor bar are clean and not coated with debris or coated with oil from the fabric sheets/softener. with a dry bar, there should be an "Open" circuit across the sensor bar terminals. when a wet or metal article is placed across the bars, there should be a Closed" circuit. The wet clothes "hitting" the sensor bar creates a circuit to ground, this reduces the voltage to the timer through the PTC on the dryness control board. When the articles dry, the circuit to ground is eliminated and the PTC on the control board allows the voltage increase to the timer and it advances to the OFF position. It is a millivolt system and usually operates between 50 and 100 mV. You're on track, you most likely have a faulty dryness display board, but first check for any loose connections at the dryness control board first.

George you will want to check venting of the unit from the blower wheel to the outside of the home to make sure that the vent is clear as this will be the most likely cause.

Robin, The timer motor is routed through the dryness control board and if this board is defective it will cause the timer not to advance. The part number for the control board is [AP33002389].

Remtedb, This issue with the unit not advancing the auto and getting too hot in the dryer would be a dryness display issue. The part number needed would be WP33002389.

Hello Dave, I'm sorry but this part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and no satisfactory substitutions have been provided. The white one WP33002389 will operate properly.

Da, The most likely cause of the unit not operating properly would be the electronic dryness control WP33002389.

Hello Doug, The Dry control does not have anything to with the heat not coming on. You will want to double check all thermal fuses, thermostats and heater to make sure that they have continuity. Make sure that you check your L2 supply to make sure that you are not loosing that leg to the heater. You also want to check to make sure that you are not loosing your leg from your timer or from the motor.

Hello William, The model that you have does have a dryness control WP33001212. You would first check and make sure you have a neutral connection to the dryer and the white wire at the dryness control board. Also check the brown wire from the display board to the timer motor terminal on the timer. If you have the circuits on the wires, then replace the dryness control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Dan, There are a couple of tetst and "jumps" you can make at the dryness control board assembly. On the four wire, five pin connector on the control, you can jump across white pin#3 and Brown pin#2 with a paperclip or similar tool(just don't touch the jumper once installed) This will complete the neutral circuit to the timer motor, and the timer should advance. You can alos disconnect the blue #19 wire from the board terminal. This will make the control think the load is dry and the timer should also advance towards the off position in an auto dry setting.

Hello Alive. If there is a bad connection or part, it can always affect the unit. However, in this case, it sounds like either the thermostats or thermal cut-offs are bad or there may be a voltage issue. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html