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Customer Questions and Answers for Moisture Sensor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282438
Manufacturer Part Number: 279366

The Moisture Sensor is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. This part detects the moisture level in the clothing during the drying cycle, allowing the dryer to adjust the drying time accordingly. 

Causes of a bad moisture sensor can include regular wear and tear, buildup of lint or residue, or physical damage. 

Symptoms of a bad moisture sensor include:

  • Clothes taking longer to dry or coming out still damp
  • The dryer not stopping when clothes are dry
  • The dryer shutting off prematurely
  • Inconsistent drying results

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Moisture Sensor (Part Number: OEM9282438)

1 Answer

Paul, With this issue the most likely cause for the units timer to not advance would be the control board which is part number WPW10476828.

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Gobucks for Model Number 110.61202011

Dryer running fine in timed dry mode, but not heating in moisture sensor mode. Happened gradually - first the clothes weren't quite dry at the end of the moisture sensor cycle, gradually got worse, and finally no heat at all in moisture mode. Suspected a bad moisture sensor. Replaced with part on this page, but did not fix the problem. Any suggestions what to do at this point? The control board would be the next guess, but given the age of the dryer, it isn't really cost effective to replace the board.

1 Answer

John, You will need to inspect the electronic control board WPW10476828 WPW10476828 and wiring for damage or burnt / arc marks or discoloration. The control board supplies the neutral circuit to the timer motor, if the board has failed, or there's a loose or broken wire, the timer will not advance or shut off. The part is in stock and available at this time. Thanks

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1 Answer

Jake, With the coils having been replaced and the igniter working, all sensors and thermostats working then this issue would be caused by a faulty gas valve. The gas valve for this unit would be part number 279923.

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1 Answer

BHyler, This issue will most likely be caused by a centrifugal switch on the motor that is sticking. You will want to open the dryer and clean the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Make sure that you disconnect the power before cleaning. Check around the motor and make sure that there is no lint caught down inside of the motor around the shaft. Once this is done then you will want to try to run the unit and if this does not correct the issue then the motor would need to be replaced or check for rollers that are not turning properly or something caught in the blower housing.

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1 Answer

Al, You will want to test the heater and thermostats to make sure that they have continuity. If they all check ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.

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1 Answer

Hello Kris. The unit is not suppose to heat on wrinkle guard. It is only suppose to tumble. If it is not tumbling, then the wrinkle switch may be bad.

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1 Answer

Hello Martin. Lay a wet wash cloth across 2 metal bars and they should read closed for continuity.

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1 Answer

Donna, There are 2 clips that hold the sensor assembly in place and if the sensor will not stay in place then you will want to pull the back off the unit and remove the filter duct assembly and look for the clips that hold the sensor pad in place. If they are not there then you will want to replace the sensor pad part number 279366.

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Bruce for Model Number LEN2000KQ2

I have a Whirlpool Electric Dryer - Model # LEN2000KQ2. What happened I thought was a relatively common issue - not drying. I did the following: Initially changed the Thermal Fuse thinking that would solve the problem. It didn't. Next I purchased the Drying Element and the Hi Temp Thermostat. That didn't work. Next I tried replacing the Dryer Cycling Thermostat and Moisture Sensor, again no luck. I checked everything out with a meter and all looks good. Finally broke down today and called a "Professional" to diagnose the problem. After he checked everything and $108.00 later, he couldn't find any issue with why it wouldn't dry. The only thing he thought "might" be the problem would be the Temperature Switch on the Console. I purchased this part from you today. Do you have any idea what so ever as to why this is not working? All parts were purchased through you. I even checked the parts with a meter and everything is perfectly fine. Now I have over $200.00 invested in parts and "labor...with the professional tech" - just want the thing to work. Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you

1 Answer

Hello Bruce, The first thing you should do is turn off the breaker to the unit and turn it back on. This is in case one side has tripped and the unit is only getting 120Vac instead of the required 240Vac. If this does no good, the components in the heating circuit are as follows: The heating element, the high limit thermostat, the operating thermostat, the thermal cutoff, the heat switch, the timer, and the centrifugal switch in the motor. If all of these components test good, the only thing it could be is a harness issue.

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