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Customer Questions and Answers for Large Element Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18033660
Manufacturer Part Number: WP74010824

The Large Element Switch is an OEM part for Whirlpool ranges. It regulates the heat output of the large heating element on the cooktop, allowing users to adjust the cooking temperature as needed.

Causes of a bad switch can include wear and tear from regular use, electrical issues, or damage from high heat exposure over time.

Symptoms of a bad large element switch include:

  • The large element not heating or staying on continuously
  • Inconsistent or incorrect heat levels
  • The switch not responding or feeling loose
  • The element turning off unexpectedly during use

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Large Element Switch (Part Number: OEM18033660)

1 Answer

Frank, The part number you listed is correct and unfortunately, this part is no longer available and no satisfactory replacement has been provided by the manufacturer.

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Scott for Model Number Jenn-Air Electric Smoothtop Downdraft Skide-in Range

I've not found the model number for the range but I have taken apart the front panel to identify the part that needs to be replaced. It is the right front dual-burner switch part number 7450P011-60. The switch should push in smartly when transitioning between zones and when going off/on - it no longer does that but rather has a nearly 1/2 inch range of motion in the off mode. Note the 2 zone elements both work, except they now have less range of control. Your replacement part #74010824 does not indicate it is for a 2 zone burner. Please confirm or identify the correct replacement part. Thanks.

1 Answer

Scott, The Element switch part number WP74010824 is the equivalent part number to the number that you provided and is for a dual burner element.

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1 Answer

Alex, The red on P1 is your L2 supply, the black on P1 is L1 supply. the L1 supply goes from the P2 and jumps across each burner switch then down to the element. So for your supply power you would check for 240 vac from P1 to P2. If no power then check wiring. For the inner element to work you would check from 2 to 4 on the switch for 240 vac when the switch is on single element. If no power then switch is bad. For the inner and outer element you would check from 4a to 2 with switch in the dual setting. If no power then the switch is bad. If there is power at both locations then you would want to check wiring to the element and if ok then replace the wiring. S2 is for the indicator light.

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Kirk for Model Number MER5875RAS

I determine whether the reason my inner burner on my triple burner (front right) is due to the element itself or the infinite switch. Upon inspection of the burners I notice several cracks in the ceramic dish that the element is mounted in. Is this customary? The other burners have no cracks. How can I check to determine which is the faulty part. The outside 2 elements work fine it is just the innermost element that is not coming on. There are two or three cracks....one going across the entire element ceramic pan.

1 Answer

Kirk, You'll probably find that the triple burner is the burner you use the most, and the insulation material does react to heat and usage, but doesn't usually cause any effect on the operation. You can test the element ribbons with a VOM meter, using the common terminal, (closest to the sensor box) and checking from that terminal to the remaining three(3) terminals on the side of the burner housing, you should read a "closed" circuit on all three tests, if all's OK the element(s) are good. You'll most likely find that you have a faulty triple burner rocker switch 7403P985-60 circuit or a damaged wire. You can also check the rocker switch circuit with a meter as well.

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1 Answer

Hello Zack. If the temperature inside the oven is wrong, and the clock is shutting off, you will need to check for lose connections or a power issue. If all of this is good, then it sounds like the electronic clock W10769079 is bad and will need to be replaced.

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