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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Control Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18021765
Manufacturer Part Number: WP2315562

Refrigerator freezing food or not cooling? This temperature control thermostat regulates cooling cycles. DIY-friendly repair, takes 10-20 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Temperature Control Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18021765)

1 Answer

Hello Brian, thanks for reaching out to AppliancePartsPros.com I would verify that the compressor is running first. If it is, check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils in the freezer section. A partial or weak frost pattern that never fully and evenly covers the evaporator will indicate a sealed system issue. At that point we would recommend contacting an appliance repair company that is qualified to do sealed system repairs.

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1 Answer

Paige, thanks for the question. Since there are only two wires (just on & off), the wire placement doesn't matter; just place one on each terminal, and you are good to go.

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1 Answer

Paul, unfortunately, control-operated refrigerators are not compatible with garage heater kits as far as we are aware. However, this particular issue could be caused by a failed thermistor or a control since everything is freezing, indicating the unit is able to cool and would not need something like a garage heater.

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Doug for Model Number Kenmore 106.58029801

For the past couple of months my fridge has been giving me grief. It will work for a week or more then it will slow down and start to thaw things out both on the freezer side and fridge side. One thing i have been doing is messing with the control settings and run them back and fourth until the compressor kicks in and then I reset the them to normal settings. until that didn`t work any more. I`m thinking thermostat? But is there just the one or is there two, one for each compartment?

1 Answer

Hello Dpick, The wires can be connected to either of the two prongs on the replacement thermostat WP2315562 and it will work. Since this is an open/closed switch the wires can be swapped and it will operate the same.

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1 Answer

Richard, This thermostat is a switch and will not matter how the wires are orientated as long as they are both connected.

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1 Answer

Patrick, as the freezer side is designed to reach temperatures below 10°F, it would not necessarily be a concern. However, the refrigerator side should not reach less than 34°F and this would likely be caused by a failed thermostat WP2315562.

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Kim for Model Number Kenmore 106.58902800

My refrigerator does not cool dependably. This has been a problem for over a year. The refrigerator runs normally for a few months and then the unit does not cool correctly again. The compressor stays off for too many hours and the freezer begins to melt. Evaporator fan works good Coils are clean Defrost Thermostat had been replace Control Board has been replaced If you smack the refrigerator on the temperature control thermostat panel, the compressor will kick on. For several months that has worked to get the compressor to turn back on. Over the last day, I have noticed that hitting the thermostat control panel still makes the compressor come on, but the compressor will only stay on for a short period of time ranging from one minute to 30 minutes, then it turns off again. Should I replace start relay and capacitor or the temperature control thermostat.

1 Answer

Peter, You will want to make sure that you flush the drain as there could be gunk in the drain tube under the refrigerator that is causing it to back up. This would be the most likely cause for this issue.

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Mark for Model Number ED5LTAXVL00

I have a 12 year old Whirlpool side by side refrigerator (ED5LTAXVL00). It has a new defrost thermostat, defrost control board, and evaporator fan. In the past couple weeks, I noticed the fresh food section was warmer than normal (butter a little soft, drinks not quite as cold, etc). I put a wireless thermometer in both the freezer and fridge sections and saw that the freezer was about as cold as expected, but the fridge was close to 50 degrees. Defroster seems to be working, but after some normal usage (opening a closing the fridge door a handful of times to get things out), the fresh food section climbs back up to around 50 degrees. If we leave it closed, it sometimes takes a really long time to cool the fridge section back down (only dropping by about 1 degree per hour). Freezer seems to stay cold. The newly installed evaporator fan seems to be working, at least some of the time (I can hear it run and can feel some cold air coming out of the damper. It is not noisy), but there were a couple times while it was supposed to be cooling down (fridge temp was still too high) that I noticed the fan was NOT running and not blowing air into the fridge section. I did clean the condensor coils and verified that the condensor and condensor fan are working. Does this point to a bad Temperature Control Thermostat? Anything else that could be the problem now that I've eliminated the defrost thermostat, defrost control board, and evaporator fans as the issue? Thanks!

1 Answer

Mark, You will certainly want to check to make sure that there are no airflow blockages. On the left side wall, there is an air grill that is a return air duct. Check to make sure that the air duct is not blocked with anything. If it is not then check to make sure the damper is not blocked with ice and that nothing tall is sitting right up against it. If this is all good then the operating thermostat would be the most likely cause for this issue.

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