Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Defrost Timer by Whirlpool

Hello Ruth. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/173916-kenmore-top-mount-refrig-h2o-build-up.html

Hello L.S.,

There are a couple of things to check in order to determine the issue. First and simplest, are both the freezer fan, (evaporator fan), and the fan behind the unit, (condenser fan), running? If not, this is the issue. If they are running, you need to make sure the hot coils, (condenser coils), are clean. If they clog with lint, the unit cannot cool down to temperature. If these things check out, you will need to remove the rear wall of the freezer and check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils. You are looking for a frost pattern that is fairly even from top to bottom. It will always be a little heavier near the top, but if the bottom of the coils are free of any frost, the issue is in air circulation or within the sealed system. The thing you don't want to see is an ice ball at the point where the lines come into the freezer compartment, since this is an indication of a freon loss. From this point, we need to know what you have found so we can further pursue the problem.

Hello Curt. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Bob. The timer is not going to cause the issue you are having. Based on the information you provided, it is the cold control WP2198202 that is bad and will need to be replaced.

Hello Karl,

You would not need to bend any tabs on the timer and the black lead will go over terminal #2.

Hello Butch,

The black wire from timer goes on terminal #2 on the defrost timer.

Gary, Since this refrigerator has a "static" condenser, you'll need to slide it out and check and clean the tubing on the back, and remove any debris in the area. The room temperature has a lot to do with the "run time" as well, if the refrigerator is in the garage, basement, or a non heated area, the exchange of heat is less efficient and the compressor runs longer, as well as "overloading" the compartments. The click noie every so often, could be the overload on the compressor "closing" or opening, due to the compressor overheating, due to lack of air movement low voltage or extended run time.

Hello,

The black wire should be attached to terminal number 1 (OR) in order for it to go into defrost every 8 hours.

Hello Panman. The black wire goes to terminal number 2 on the timer W10822278.

Hello Mike. Based on the model number, For cumulative run timer
push slotted loose timer
motor lead over & all the
way down terminal
number 2 with wire
toward timer motor.