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Customer Questions and Answers for Sensor by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18045969
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10120019
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Sensor (Part Number: OEM18045969)

1 Answer

Hi Bob. Quickly and firstly,.. Is the sink water filling the unit reaching at least 120° as you are loading the dishwasher? Have you ever used dishwasher magic monthly part # TJ104 to insure proper performance levels ? In the lower kick plate there is a field service tech. sheet. It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. As the sheet suggest to remove the turbidity sensor connections at the control boar and measure the wire connector at J5 pins 1 orange and 3 red for 10k ohms at 77°. The sensor is part # WPW10120019 , if it does not read +/- 5% of this value replace it. It is located under the tub close to the motor to sense the inner sump cleanliness and the temperatures. You will also need the o-ring part # 99002651. User a very little of liquid dish soap onto the o-ring while installing it to help seal it. Also while you are at the control board , find the Measure resistance from ST1 Red/Black (Heater) to ST11 Whit (Common) for 16 O ohms resistance.(This value assumes the high limit thermostat is closed). The heater is part # W10283681. The thermostat is part # WP99002633. The technical jargon will be explained on the tech sheet . Thank You.

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Chas for Model Number MDB8751AWW

Water cold, replaced heating element. This solved the cold water problem, however, Sanitized lite did no come on even though button pressed. I replaced control board. Still no Sanitied lite, even though very hot water. When set for Light Wash Cycle, operates like it was set for Heavy Wash. Auto cycle does not correspond to operation description. Selected cycles do no function as described, no Sanitized lite, no dry dishes although clean. Frustratiing! Can this be fixed???

1 Answer

Chas, The "sanitized" light will not luminate at the end of the cycle unless the water temperature actually reaches 154 to 160 dgrs.F. This may help explain it better ": Temperature Options (Available on select models) : If the Sanitize option is available for a given cycle, it forces a 140°F temp check at the end of the main wash for the Light Wash , a 154°F temp check prior to the rinse aid dispense in the final rinse, and adds 5 minutes unheated circulation prior to rinse aid dispense. : If the 160 dgr.Option is available for a given cycle, it forces a 160°F temp check prior to the rinse aid dispense in the final rinse. Notes 1. All times are approximate. 2. Temperature checks force a maximum 20 minute heating delay to reach the desired temperature. 3. The cycle definition gives the minimum and maximum possible cycle lengths. Actual cycle length and executed cycle functions will vary based on the sensor input. 4. Fill length varies between different models." You may want to check the turbidity sensor for deposits or debris, or may want to replace it if you wish. But the issue is most likely a water temperature issue or mis understanding of the control operation and cycle selections. Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

56morrison, The turbidity sensor uses incorporates a light sensor to determine the amount of debris in the water, and extends the cycle as needed. It doesn't have a lot to do with a drain issue. In your style dishwasher, you'll need to check the drain hose assembly for kinks, or clogs, you may want to remove the "flowplate" and check the four(4) sleeves on the drain baffle (red) to the drain pump. Thanks and Good Luck

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Bill M. for Model Number mdbh955awb

I reseated the ribbon. Got lights. But no action. I had the dishwasher out of the hole on the cabinets and decided to just put it back in for the moment. I diconnected the power and reconnected and boom..It ran. Do you think i still have a bad panel? Is that typical behavior? I wonder...Could reseating ribbon and diconnecting and connecting power have "rebooted"? If it does it again you think control panel and not the circuit board? Thanks...

1 Answer

Hello Bill. Yes, if the unit does it again, you will need to replace the control panel 6-920244. The board should be fine in the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Bill. If there is no power at the control panel, but there is power at the control board, you will need to replace the control panel 6-920244. Try removing the ribbon cable from the control board and reseating it. If that does not work, then the panel is likely to be bad. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Ralph. The first thing you will need to do is get the water hot at the sink. The water should come in at 120° on the first fill, then the heater will heat it up to the correct temp. The timer on the control board limits the time the heater is turned on. So if there is cold water inside the tub, the water will not reach the correct temperature. Hope this helps.

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