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Customer Questions and Answers for Sensor by Whirlpool

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4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18045969
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10120019
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Sensor (Part Number: OEM18045969)

1 Answer

Phil, If this only occurs during the rinse cycle, you'll need to check and make sure the dishwasher is draining properly between cycles and the detergent is not foaming or sudsing. Make sure the dishwasher is filling to the proper water level in the rinse cycle( should be touching the bottom of the heater element(at the least) and make sure the rinse agent is not "foaming" as well. These new high efficiency pumps, do not react well to suds,foam, or air in the system and can make noise. You may want to try cleaning the dishwasher with Glisten W10549845 or Affresh W10501250 Dishwasher Cleaner, to remove any possible chemical build up inside the dishwasher tub and components

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1 Answer

Hello Ronkut! Unfortunately, the turbidity sensor part number 99002071 (our part number 99002071) discontinued with no further replacements or cross references available and our company is unaware of any other available sources. Sorry about that!

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Terry for Model Number JDB2150AWP

I recently purchased a door latch (AP4481280) and door striker(AP113389) for a Jenn-Air and installed both but this did not solve my problem of the washing cycle continuing when the door is opened. The wash arms continue to operate, spraying water all over. The washing cycle should stop when the door is open to allow the customer to add or remove items and this just isn't happening. Could a sensor be the problem rather than the latch assembly? The washer is about 8-9 years old. Help please!

1 Answer

Hello Terry, The new door latch assembly has to be assembled or installed incorrectly. This is the only logical assumption as the switches are responsible for passing neutral through one and the 120Vac power supply through the other one. In light of this fact, the door latch assembly is holding both switches in the closed position at all times and should be studied to determine the corrective action necessary. This configuration of door latch is a complicated animal that can be assembled incorrectly by an experienced technician. The issue has nothing to do with any sensors.

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1 Answer

Don, You did check and make sure you have plenty of hot water at the faucet/adapter fitting, right ? You'll want to remove the wooden top, and check the right rear corner inside the cabinet and make sure there are no kinks in the hoses from the adapter assembly WP99001868 with the hose extended and retracted. If all's OK, you'll need to remove the toe panel W10117496 and check or replace the fill valve W10243263

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Aaron for Model Number MDB5601AWW

Thanks for the answer but it only ran a day on the old board so it has to be somehting with one of the boards or the motor.. It wont stay running enough now to run the cleaner through it. It just back to the three 30 second bursts and they it shuts off and I have to drain it manually. Its funny how it ran for 20 days with the new board then did this again, put the old board in and it ran for a day (about three loads) then did the same thing again. My guess is the motor as thats about the only thing that has not been replaced at this point.

1 Answer

Aaron, If the unit ran for 20 days, then it's not likely a motor or capacitor issue. Check and make sure you have the correct control board in the dishwasher (series numbers, are the first two numbers in the serial number) series 10- 32 needs 12002709 series 33-35 needs WPW10218825 and series 36 and later needs WPW10218837 . The control panel 6-919819 is the same on all versions of the dishwasher. If you have the correct parts installed, then we'll need to start checking the wiring harness for loose connections, frayed connectors, or brokrn wires at the harness where the tub and door intersect.

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Aaron for Model Number MDB5601AWW

Have a Maytag quiet series 300 that is baffling. Originally, washer would fill then start up with three short runs from the motor and totally shut off. We Put a new circuit board in it and it ran fine for about 20 days or so and then went back to doing the same thing. We could not run test on the control panel and the lights were doing funky thins so they said we needed a touch panel. Put that in and no go (Same thing)but we were able to run the test to get a 'Motor - High Current' error. Read all the horror stories about the motor being bad with this error but I thought I would swap out the old / originl circuit board as a last ditch effort. Well it started and stayed running on the original board we thought was bad. It runs but seems a little off its normal game (like when your car has a slight miss)but is is possible the new board went bad and or is there something else going on that I may be overlooking? Any help is greatly appreciated.

1 Answer

Aaron, The "high current" error can be caused by several conditions, low water level, detergent, rinse aid "foaming" it's not necessarily a motor issue. You may want to run some dishwasher cleaner through the unit W10501250 to clean out any build up or deposits. Check that the dishwasher is filling properly (start the dishwasher and allow it to run 3 to 5 minutes, unlatch and open the door , the water level should be 1/2 way up to coverring the heater element, if it's filling proper. You most likely had a faulty touchpad assembly, and you may have installed the incorrect new control board, and it could have been faulty, as well. Once you doo the other checks and clean out the dishwasher, you'll probably be fine. Thanks

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1 Answer

Charles, You'll need to check or replace the fill valve W11082871 ,and check the water pressure and flow to the dishwasher. The control board has a built in limiter, it will allow power to the valve for 90 to 100 seconds, then turns the power off. At the proper water pressure and flow the inlet valve allows 1.1 GPM, In 90 seconds there should be approximately 1.7 gallons of water in the bottom of the tub. If you allow the dishwasher to fill and run for three(3) to five(5) minutes the safety float should be floating and the heater element should be partially submerged, If not the fill valve is usually the issue. Thanks

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