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Pump to drain hose.
Removed the agitator, then the spacer and lock screw, then the inside tub, then the mounting stem I replaced the agitator collar to fix the issue The hardest part on this project was removing the locks with the spanner wrench. It is not easy to break loose if the machine has never been repaired in 15 years. You need the rubber hammer and really hit hard to get loose. This is what took the longest. (Approximately 1 hour for me) Read more
I followed the excellent video demonstrating how to replace the fasteners. Although this sounds simple I would have struggled to put them in place without a visual demonstration. Read more
Color: Biscuit.
Ordered all 3 parts for thr timer and replaced originals. Read more
Located beneath the washer tub, this gear assembly transfers power from the motor to create the agitation and spin cycles. Replace when clothes aren't getting clean, the washer won't spin, or you hear loud grinding or clicking noises during operation.
Ordered my replacement unit from APP, along with a few other "while I am fixing this I should replace that since I am disassembling the washer" parts also from APP. After 2 hours of repair work, the washer is back in full working as new order. The only recommendation to others is make sure you order ALL the parts for the job. Take time to investigate all that you will or might need to replace. An ounce of prevention is worth the pound of cure. Like the old line; measure twice and cut... Read more
Used the tool i purchased to remove stubborn brake assembly it worked great Read more
Lower brake bearing
I first replaced the two drive belts and the motor springs. That didn't fix it although they did need replacing. I then replaced the two bearings and the brake assy. The washer runs like new. If you replace the brake assembly, you should also replace the bearings. It will save a tear down later on. The Maytag repairman wanted $600.00 dollars to do the job. I did it for less than $200.00. Read more
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