We use cookies and similar tools for site analytics and advertising. See our Privacy Policy for details. Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information
Need Help?
Call
Some parts shown may not be for your model. To see parts for your model only, select it from "Matching Model Numbers" list on the left.
I removed and inspected the lid magnet. It had a 1/8" layer of corrosion. I removed the layer of corrosion and reinstalled the part. the symptom improved. That was a stop-gap repair until the new lid magnet arrived. The broken rubber isolators were discovered when I removed the top of the washing machine. Read more
Harness to corset & shifter
Includes 12 terminals.
I had to replace the 3 terminals and try to put them in the new terminal receptacle. I replaced the lid switch because I broke the old one trying to diagnose the problem. I found the helpful video on this site after I had already started. Read more
I mistakenly thought that this was a complex failure and that it would be cheaper to just replace my washing machine. Was I ever wrong. I decided on a whim to google the problem I was experiencing and learned that it was the timer. I then found out how easy it was to locate the timer and saw for myself how easy the timer is to replace. The wires are simply attached to a quick disconnect plug. I then checked how much a new timer costs, and also checked how much a new washing machine costs... Read more
We had two problems at the same time. The washer was occasionally overflowing especially on super loads, and also leaking out the bottom, which got worse really fast. The overflow problem we have had before when the pressure switch hose became plugged with gunk, but cleaning the hose didn' fix it this time. The leak could be seen just above the trans. housing at the drum, so we diagnosed a bad seal. Knowing that the bearing would have to be running with water in it we also ordered the bearing... Read more
Washer leg and platform assembly that supports and levels your washer. Replace if the leg is cracked, broken, or the platform is damaged or missing.
This power cord assembly connects your washer to the electrical outlet and supplies power to all machine components. It includes the proper gauge wiring and safety features required for washer operation. Replace this part if the cord is damaged, frayed, or if your washer won't power on despite having electrical power at the outlet.
This small cylindrical pin secures rotating or moving parts within your washer's mechanical assembly. It prevents components from shifting out of alignment during operation cycles. Replace this pin if you hear rattling noises, parts seem loose, or if mechanical functions aren't working smoothly.
This assembly controls the washing machine's agitation and spin functions through a combination transmission and brake system. It transfers motor power to create the washing and spinning motions while providing proper stopping control. Replace this part if your washer won't agitate, won't spin, makes loud grinding noises, or if clothes remain soaking wet after the spin cycle.
Replaced transmission and brake assembly. The video on appliancepartspros.com was very helpful. A few comments: 1) On my model, there was no wiring harness to unhook to detach the lid switch, as was shown on the video. Instead, I had to remove the switch itself. Underneath, one of the short edges of the switch has a clip that you depress, and then you can poke the switch up. Once it's loose, then you can turn it a bit and work it down through the hole so it's free of the lid. 2) The tub nut may... Read more
Pulled front panel off. Unbolted and removed top cover. Removed tub trim cover. Removed and replaced gasket and dampers. Put it a back together took about 20 minutes Read more