Ge WH38X10002 Transmission And Brake Assembly OEM Part

Replaced transmission and brake assembly. The video on appliancepartspros.com was very helpful. A few comments: 1) On my model, there was no wiring harness to unhook to detach the lid switch, as was shown on the video. Instead, I had to remove the switch itself. Underneath, one of the short edges of the switch has a clip that you depress, and then you can poke the switch up. Once it's loose, then you can turn it a bit and work it down through the hole so it's free of the lid. 2) The tub nut may be very tight. I had to encourage it with some WD40. 3) My drum is stainless steel. To make the holes, the metal is poked outward. The inside of the drum is smooth, but the outside is like a cheese grater, and it's easy to slice your hand. 4) The motor is very heavy, so when turning the tub upside down, it's awkward, so be careful. 5) After I put it all back together, the washer wouldn't go to spin cycle. It turned out not to be a problem with the transmission or electronics, as I had feared. It may have had something to do with the tube that controls the water level. Somewhere I read that this can be the case, and that after reattaching this tube, put the washer on spin cycle for at least a minute. I also put the water level switch to "reset", which I hadn't done initially. In addition, I read about reseting the motor (sort of like a "reboot"). You can search online for this, and it involves lifting the lid a few times. I don't know if that applied to my model, but it can't do any harm. I honestly can't say which remedy fixed it, but it works fine now. A great repair, and I hope to get at least another 10 years out of my washer!

Ordered new transmission, nut, split washer and spanner wrench to do the install. very straight forward fix after watching the video. spanner wrench is a must or the correct large socket with an impact driver. it was corroded on pretty well let the liquid wrench work for a while and then beat it off. approximately 2 hours to do to fix, spent some time cleaning stuff up also though. washer was 12 years old and debated scrapping it and getting a new one but then it would not match the dryer. there really is not much in these washing machines. put a new belt on as well should be good for another 12 years.

The main bearing is built into the transmission. Our unit was extremely loud during spin cycle and I suspected a bad bearing. Upon disassembly I found that the tub seal was leaking and water got into the bearing. Tell tail sign is grease splatter in the bottom side of the tub ( about 10" round metal area) Agitator took some effect to jar loose as did the tub nut All in all this is a pretty straight forward repair if you follow the video. To replace this washer is right around $1,000 and this repair cost about $150. Now is quieter than ever! Thanks appliance parts.com!

I had to order all items connected with tub bearing, such as tub seal, split ring, including the transmission.

Spanner wrench was a must have. Make sure you pay attention to the direction the nut goes. The transmission installation video from appliancepartspros.com was a great help. Saw a lot of blogs talking about chiseling the nut off etc. Didn't need to chisel it off, but after 8 years being on the machine it did take some solvents and a bit of smacking with a shorty 5lb sledge. Job ended up being just a bout a full tear down and rebuild. If the two stubborn parts had come apart easier it would have been about a 4hr job. Also, replaced the tub seal with the one included with the transmission, but the tub was a bit worn so there wasn't a real great seal. Further inspection of underside of unit it looks like the tub had been leaking and that probably caused the transmission to fail in the beginning. Used some pipe tape around the new seal and presto!! No leaks on tub! Ended up saving us about $400 since if I couldn't fix it would meant we had to buy a new unit.