Zis48d Parts

I replace the water inlet valve in my refrigerator about 8 months ago. About a week ago, the old plastic water line broke. I forgot how the water line connector worked and broke the valve trying to pull it out. I got a new valve and replacement water line, and it went in easily, just like the video said. Morals of the story: 1. Know how to remove the old plastic water line. I could have saved myself the price of a new valve if I'd remembered how the connector worked. Unless you have a really... Read more

I purchased a replacement water valve assembly and a replacement water reservoir from AppliancePartsPros and researched some online videos to learn how to replace both these items, including all new water tubing. In the online process, I utilized "how-to" videos from AppliancePartsPros, too. Installing the water reservoir proved the most tricky, mostly because it was tricky feeding the tubing under the refrigerator. By comparison, installing the valve assembly and running new tubing for it was... Read more

• Noisy

Condenser fan stopped on my big 2003 Monogram 4 foot wide ZIS480D Refrigerator. It is top mounted. The fridge had to be rolled out. 20 screws removed and the top sheet metal to get at the condenser. That was the only way to get at it. Works like new now. Read more

First, I had to remove the cover plate on the back of the refrigerator. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve from the rest of the assembly. I then unplugged the electrical contacts by pulling them apart. There are two fittings on the valve. One has a nut on it. That one just needs the nut unscrewed, after which the pex tubing can be pulled out. The other one has a pex connection. This one can be separated by simultaneously pushing in on the fitting neck while pulling the pex tubing out. On... Read more

Firstly, the Ice Door had a kink in the edge, which caused it to stay open and create lots of frost on the coils. $5.00 part, highly recommend it. (By the way, the new door was little too big and it too stay propped open and left a gap so I had to trim the top edge of the rubber with scissors to get it to fully close.) Secondly, there are two heaters for the defrost cycle, one that goes around the coils and another attached to a collector pan beneath the coils. When the cycle hits, those... Read more

Tested the input voltage of the transformer (located at the bottom of the fridge) at 125V. Tested the output voltage and was only getting 1 volt. Ordered the listed new transformer, installed it, which was a major pain in the A*&^^& just not a lot of room to work with, but did get in in and "voila" the LED panel worked again! Very quick shipping from Appliance Parts Pros which included the correct part, Thank you. Read more

I researched the problem online and determined it was undoubtedly the water valve leaking. A visit to AppliancePartsPros.com to order the replacement valve and I was ready to go. Actual repair only took 15 minutes. Read more

I replaced all sensors and defrost thermostat's, defrost heater, fan motor Read more

Spliced new and old power cord near the connections in the fridge and connected them. Didn't mess with the factory harnesses or connections inside actual fridge. Read more

Installed new stainless steel pan replacing broken original plastic pan and installed new rubber grommets for the compressor Read more

I replaced the fan and heater element. The replacement was not an exact match. I had to adjust the parts to get the harness to fit the plug was not the correct size. I cut it off and used the existing plug. Not a big deal and everything else fit. Pretty good for a twenty year old replacement. Also the heater element was a different shape but it fit as is. Read more

GE Repair Specialist diagnosed the problem Read more