Whirlpool WP233520 Thrust Washer OEM Part

Upon removal of the lower inspection panel on the front of the machine, my 20 year old son thought the motor was bad by the smell. But he did discover what turned out to be the belt tensioner pulley laying inside the machine. After he pronounced it dead, without a thought to the idler pulley, I looked at the machine and determined the lack of movement was due to the idler pulley having "fallen" off the shaft by looking at the illustrated parts break down provided on this website. Ordered the parts over the phone at 1 PM on Friday afternoon. I had the parts by Saturday, by 11 AM!!!! I did pay for the rush shipping...but that was incredibly fast. Removed the remaining front cover from the machine, removed the hoses, electrical connection from the motor/pump assembly. Parts installed, washer running almost like new, for a 10+-year-old machine...about an hour. (Had the 20-year-old do it...it was good for him to see things could be repaired.) Not to mention the fact that I didn't have to spring for an $800.00 washer which sadly, probably wouldn't be as reliable as this one. All told a good experience. The idler was damaged, the edges of the top/bottom lip of the roller were broken off, but only on one side, so I had my son place that side on top, so gravity would prevent the belt from contacting that portion of the idler. All told 45 minutes to remove the motor, install, and back to operation. Will definitely order again-I have the matching 10+ year old dryer...so it is coming.

I had a noisy Maytag MDE308DAYW Legacy Series dryer, that would rumble and squeal when used. After searching on-line, I found the Appliance Parts Pros video series on YouTube, and watched as the host explained the issues and demonstrated the repair needed. After watching the video, I visited the Appliance Parts Pros website, and called up a list of available parts using the model number for my machine. Knowing that I wouldn't find out the real problem until I disassembled the dryer, I ordered a pair of new dryer drum support rollers, a dryer belt tension pulley assembly and a dryer drive belt. I also ordered several thrust washers and a pair of retaining rings to use as spares in case the ones on the machine were damaged or missing. After receiving the parts, I disassembled the dryer following the video and then replaced the parts according to the two videos posted by Appliance Parts Pros about these two repairs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-IsTLJSAcY and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4WHYtzEYZI). Upon opening the machine, I found that one of the existing drum support rollers on my machine had partially melted, the bearing was locked, was missing a thrust washer and was stuck on its shaft. The other showed signs of wear but was still spinning and had all its parts. It gave me confidence that I had properly diagnosed the issue using this site and had ordered the proper parts for the repair. The main challenge I faced was removing and replacing the retaining rings. Even though I stopped at an auto-parts supply store to pick up a pair retaining-ring pliers, they did did not have the right size tips, so I had to remove these with needle-nose pliers and other tools, which ended up destroying the original rings -- good thing I ordered spares! I also had trouble removing nut that attached the belt tension pulley, as I did not have a thin wrench / socket that could fit in the small space and had trouble holding the nut on the other side to provide some tension to the screw as I backed it out. I improvised with the tools I had, but it took me a while. After installation of the new parts, I took the time to brush / vacuum-out the lint and dust from the inside of the dryer housing. Then, I reassembled the dryer following the videos. The parts fit perfectly and now I have a working dryer that is so much quieter. I hope it continues to well run for many more years. (Your videos were a lifesaver!)

Replaced the belt tension pulley, the drum support rollers and the drum guide. While I was at it I replaced the belt. The repair was easy to complete. It took just over an hour to do the job. I ordered all of the parts that I thought could cause the squeak ahead of time. As it turned out the squeak was caused by the belt tension pulley. I replaced the other parts while I had the dryer apart. The Dryer should be noise free for several years.

Disconnect vent line(s) and remove power plug or source to unit (Very Important!) Carefully removed dryer drum assembly and found evidence of heavy object(s) placed on top of dryer while operating which caused the drum to be bound up while operating. (Rule #1: NEVER place heavy objects or large amounts of wet clothing on TOP of dryer near the middle of the dryer top (where there is no heavy support) while it is ON!!!) This caused the pulleys and bearing assemblies (and glides on the front drum support) to bind, heat up and wear very quickly, which made the dryer turn off-balance in the holding fixtures. Had it been left like this for too long, I believe it would have burned up the motor, or worse case caught on fire! (Dryer dry good, fire bad) Provided proper training to family in the use and operation of the unit. (and cleaned out the various lint and dust collection areas, to include exhaust and electrical parts). Please do this as a part of your repair, as there were areas in the dryer that needed some attention (wire routing to prevent chafing, and excessive lint build-up) that could have done their worse even without the drum repairs. After all repairs are complete, make sure to check the floor level posts and position to ensure the dryer is level with the floor (could be a part of the uneven wear on the pulleys?).

My problem was my dryer would work for about 10 minutes after that the ignitor would glow but the flame wouldn't kick on until it cooled down a little bit maybe three or four cycles but then the flame would light up again replaced gas valve coil kit even though ohms test showed it was good found a video on youtube how to diagnose dryer problems and on there the guy says even though your coils test good when they heat up is when they can fail