Whirlpool WP9762100 Membrane Switch (Black) OEM Part

First of course pull the range out to grant access to the back panel and unplug from the wall. The repair actually required 2 parts the Electronic Control Board and Membrane Switch the only aspect that delayed my repair is not being aware that the Membrane Switch had apparently been shorted as well I did not order both parts at the same time. Beyond that simple remove 3 screws to open back of panel, 4 to remove the Electronic Control Board after removing the attached wiring and ribbon tape to the Membrane Switch. Then for the Membrane Switch taking a pair of flat nosed pliers to straighten the dog ears used to hold the Membrane Switch in place and sliding it out. There is a plastic cover that will come out once you remove the Membrane Switch that goes between the Control Board and the window in the Membrane Switch for the Clock/Temp display on the control panel to simplify the installation you will want some form of tape to hold it in when reinstalling the Electronic Control Board. This is again a simple process feed the ribbon connector for the Membrane Switch thru the slot and align the dog ears to there corresponding hole and then pressing down on the face of the Membrane Switch take the pliers and bend the dog ears to secure it, then place the clear plastic lens in place and using a small strip of tape to hole it on each end proceed to reinstall the Control Board securing it with the 4 screws that you removed. Now connect all the wires which generally have assigned connectors to include a slot for the ribbon connector. There are a couple I recommend you mark or take a digital photo of that you can refer to when connecting the single wires. Once re-installation is complete then plug the range in to double check your work and test the settings using the Membrane Switch to set the clock, check functions and when complete replace the panel cover and return the range to its place your done.

Replaced membrane switch.

I love my stove, but its had some glitches lately starting with a shorted out power cord on Christmas Eve. We got that fixed pretty quickly and thought all the problems were solved. Then a few weeks later the simmer switch on the front burner went out. That also was eventually fixed. Then last week we went to turn on the oven and SHAZAM!...another part bit the dust. Some people might ditch it and buy a new one, but a repair is still much cheaper than buying a new stove. We checked several options to find the part and Appliance Parts Pros had the part in stock and at the best price and since I needed it fast, the expedited shipping was very reasonable. Hopefully there won't be any more repairs to my stove, but if there are, I know where I'll be checking!

I was unsure at first that I could fix it, but a call to a national repair service convinced me to at least give it a try (they told me it would be about $500 and tried repeatedly to sell me a 12 month warranty contract). Ordered the part from you guys, and read the other story that was out there (very helpful). The repair was simple: First, I shut the switch off at the electrical box, then removed the back access panel (3 screws). Then (leaving all wires connected), I removed the 4 screws that held the circuit board in place and simply hung it over the back edge of the stove, unhooking the ribbon cable in that process. There was a clear plastic component that served as a window of sorts, and once I straightened the "dog ears" that held the pushbutton panel in place (that's the part I ordered), it came right out. I then installed the pushbutton control, dog-earring the little flaps that secured it. Hardest part was holding the "window piece in place during reassembly, but that got easier with a couple small pieces of tape. Lifted the circuit board back into place and returned the 4 screws, and secured the ribbon cable to it. Mounted the access panel again, and voila --- all done. Restore power, and everything worked again! Total repair cost: $175, and 15 minutes of time.