Whirlpool 74007736 Gas Cooktop Burner Head Assembly OEM Part

I replaced the old burner with the new burner assembly which included the ignighter. The screw that held the old ignighter was frozen into the old burner such that just the ignighter could not be replaced. Be care full removing the screws to the burner as they also may be frozen and tend to snap off instead of unscrewing. You will need to drill an tap new holes.

You will need a special "star" socket driver for this process. You can find it at any auto parts retailer, I got mine at the AutoZone. First unscrew the 2 "star" screws and unplug the igniter lead from the old burner then plug the igniter lead into the new burner igniter and re-screw the new burner back on the range. It was a very easy swap out process. In the process, I broke one of the screw... this is the hard part of all trying to remove the broken screw. Remember to soak the screws with W40 before you remove them (at least 5 minutes each) wiggle the screw while introducing the W40, when the rust broke loose screw can be removed like a snap. Without the broken screw I would say it will take you about 10 to 15 minutes to replace all 5 burners. The range is now look and work just like new.

I have a Jenn Air gas stove converted to propane, and front right burner would not ignite. Visual inspection showed the igniter was skewed off center away from the burner ring. Disassembly revealed significant corrosion on the igniter screw and metal holding tab. The corrosion on the holding tab was enough to cause the igniter to shift and skew. Also, significant corrosion on the holding screws for the upper burner assemblies, which is a major problem for disassembly of the cook top. The front two burner assemblies required breaking off the screw heads for removal. Anti-seize compounds were no good due to the weakening of the screws. I ended up replacing both upper and lower burner assemblies on the front due to holding screws stuck in the lower assemblies, and igniter screws stuck in the upper assemblies. The rear assemblies were salvageable. I replaced the cheap OEM holding screws for all burners with stainless steel (1" #8 self tapping AB threaded, phillips drive) and used anti-seize compound on the reassembly. The dual assembly was also tricky to remove due to the gas tubing compression fittings seizing on the center ring orifice entry. I was able to remove the outer tubing and bend the inner tubing enough to spin the orifice assembly instead of the compression nut.

First unplug the power, remove the two top screw and disconnect the ignite cable and reconnect the cable to the new one, screw back the two screws on the top of the burner and plug the power back, and test it, it work like a pro.

Took old off, put new on simple but I recommend buying the whole burner you will never get the old screw out of the base if you are trying to repair bad igniter. Did have to drill old screws out of top of burner on two of the burners. Did replace with S.S. screws. I liked that burners are new, burn great nice and clean.