Whirlpool WP3977767 Dryer Hi-Limit Thermostat OEM Part

I used the Appliance Parts Pros d.i.y. video to get some oversight on the repair; ordered the parts (heating element, Hi-Limit T-stat and Dryer Thermal Cut-Off kit). I unplugged the electric; disconnected the exhaust duct; moved the clothes dryer so that I could remove the back sheet metal panel. The electrical connection at the heater "Stacon" terminal was corroded and broken - an open circuit. This had happen about 10 years before and I was familiar with this problem. After removing the heater I inspected it and noticed that one of the ceramic insulator stand-offs had cracked and it appeared that the heater coil was touching the heater housing (the housing surface was charred in this area). After receiving the parts mentioned above, I installed them. The damaged wire, I cut back to a good area and spliced it with a crimp (union) connection to the wire (modified) supplied with the Thermal cut-off kit. The Thermal cut-off and the Hi-Limit Thermostat were replaced with new parts as the existing items were 15 years old. I checked the Thermal fuse and Cycling Thermostat with an ohmmeter - these existing parts were good. I test ran the clothes dryer with the air duct connected, back cover off and checked the ampere draw (21 amps at the heater), and the voltage (240 vac). Disconnected the dryer again an put it back together and ran the unit for 10 minutes on hi heat setting - all OK. Oddly, when I measured the resistance of the old and new heater coil, the resistance measurements were the same, about 9 ohms, cold). The old heater case was charred in the area of the broken insulator stand-off, this condition may have had an effect on the amp draw and/or heat condition to cause the heater terminal wire to part, ???

Did some poking around on the interweb and found appliancepartspros.com along with the help I needed to fix my dryer. I have never worked on a dryer but am fairly mechanical. Tools I used were a 1/4" nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. I watched a youtube video of changing-out the heating element and couldn't believe how easy it is. My dear wife had spent time cleaning most of the stuff that had accumulated around the dryer since it was installed in 2010. I used the small shop vac and cleaned the dryer after the rear cover was removed as well as the duct/wall vent. The wall vent had so much lint in it that the flapper would not close. This is a West wall and the flapper closing will keep the room from getting so cold in the winter. I should probably clean that annually. I didn't do any testing of components, just ordered the Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Switch Kit and a Hi-Limit Thermostat. Only problem I had (besides NOT being as limber as I used to be working in the tight area Lol), which really wasn't a problem, was that the Hi-Limit Thermostat is included in the Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit. The two interchangeable parts look different, the one in the Kit uses a jumper wire and the other one doesn't. The one that doesn't use the jumper wire looked just like the one I took off my dryer so I used that one. Upon disassembly, I found my heating element was broken. I saved the two switches I removed and replaced in case I might need them in the future (will test them to make sure they are still good). As mentioned, there is a slight smell for a few minutes when initially turning on the dryer. First drying cycle with the new element I used a setting ~75% of what I normally used to use for a load. I didn't let it go through the cool-down cycle and when I took the clothes out they were much warmer than in the past and completely dry. I would imagine the element was not working correctly for some time. Great experience with the order. Ordered the parts on a weekend and received them on Tuesday using just the "Fast" shipping. Removal and replacement of the parts could be completed by anyone with a 1/4" socket and a pair of needle nose pliers. A helper is nice to bring a cocktail.

I took my volt meter and checked the fuses and thermostats and found the Hi-Limit Thermostat was no good. I went on-line and found the part on appliancepartspros.com and them had it to me in a couple days. It was easy to replace and the laundry didn't get backed up.

And after replacing the thermal fuse The dryer turned on.

Found heater to be bad broken coil. Hi limit thermostat also tested faulty so I replaced both operational check was good.