Whirlpool WP3387134 Dryer Cycling Thermostat OEM Part

After 22 years my Kenmore (Whirlpool) dryer stopped getting hot. So I went ahead and reviewed the videos and figured I could repair it myself. It should be noted that the only part that failed the Ohm test was the thermal fuse. However, I figured that since I have it apart, I might as well go ahead and replace the heating element and the cycling thermostat. Here is a rundown of what I did and how long it took: • Taking the back off and vacuum <1 minute • Finding the components (from the video) <1 minute • Testing the components with Ohm tester <2 minutes • Replacing the thermal fuse and high level thermostat ~5 minutes • Replacing the cycling thermostat ~5 minutes • Replacing the heater core ~7 minutes • Full vacuum and replacement of back ~ 5 minutes Tools used: Ohm tester, power nut driver and needle nose pliers Issues encountered: The original heater core had a screw hole at the top and on each side. The new one only has the side holes so a new top hole had to be drilled. It was stressed to connect the wires back in the correct order. However, when you see the part, it can be rotated 180 degrees so either side can be used. There was no orientation provided. Not stated in any of the videos (but makes good sense); when you first start up the dryer with the new heater, it gives off a strange odor while the oil burns off. This odor goes away after about 5 minutes. With the new parts installed, laundry that used to take 60 to 75 minutes to dry now takes 20 minutes. Closing question: The original parts (some which are still good) lasted over 20 years. How long will the new parts last?

Since the dryer was 24 years old I opted to replace all the possible problem components, instead of just the bad one. The parts aren't that expensive and do to their age I figured it was worth it to avoid having to go back into the dryer in a few months. The repair was surprisingly easy and went pretty much as the video instruction AppliancePartPros provided with one exception. Because, my model was much older than that used in the video, I had a more difficult time replacing the Heating element. The older model has a different layout of the rear access panel. The top of the heating element box was concealed by another panel preventing access to the screw and bracket holding it in. For me, the easiest way get to it was by removing the dryer top panel. This is still easy... you remove the two screws under the Lint trap door and release the two clips holding down the front. You also have video on how to do this. The whole top can be lifted up. It is hinged at the back, giving you easy access to the top of the Heater Box, screw and bracket. Remove wires from the thermal cut of components and the heating element, remove the screw on the back of the box that holds the heating element in. the element box. Remove old element, install new element and lock in place with screw. Replace the parts of the thermal cut off kit, then replace the heater box re-attaching the bracket at the top. Close the dryer to Top Panel. Re attach the wire for the top thermal cut off, bottom thermal cut off, and the heating element... get the right wire on the right component, but wiring order doesn't matter. The Dryer cycling element is all that's is left, and goes exactly as in the video, The wiring order does matter on this one. I advise removing the old on with wires still attached. Put the new one in being careful to give it the same alignment, and then move the wires one a time from the old component to the new. Replace the Back panel and you are done. I used an electric screw and nut driver. and the whole Job took a about 45 minutes and I really took my sweet time. Wear gloves!

I suspected the gas valve coils as I’ve replaced them before but this time it did not solve the problem. Luckily I ordered all five parts that are related to the heating function including the coils, thermal fuse, igniter kit, flame sensor, and finally the cycling thermostat. I figured while I had the dryer completely apart it’s probably a good idea to replace everything at once since one of the other parts may have failed shortly after. With all five new parts installed I gave her a test spin and she literally fired right up! I only had two challenges during the process, first, the dryer drum will not stay in position until you put the front panel back on so I used a bungee cord to keep it in place while I reattached the drive belt. Second, the one screw that holds the igniter bracket in place is in a bit of an awkward place, had to use a very small crescent wrench to get in there. Additional tips: Disconnect from the power outlet and turn off the gas valve behind the dryer, to open the top panel you can use a putty knife on the two front corners to release the clips or just give the top panel a nice tug forward at the rear left and right corner then simply pull the front of the panel up, change all parts while you’re in there, vacuum out all lint and debris, change the vent duct if bent or out of shape. The overall repair was actually pretty easy, I’d say give it a shot as a repair service could run a couple of hundred dollars and new dryers are getting pretty expensive these days. Good luck!

Through 15 years of vibration, the Cycling Thermostat evidently had degraded to the point where one electrical connection or more came loose and caused a short. There is also a possibility that the Bakelite section of the Dryer Cycling Thermostat body separated from the metal base, simultaneously exposing all four connections to a short. The thermostat literally exploded into chunks and dust. There was a heavy arcing and then, thankfully, the thermal fuse blew and shut down power to the short before a fire could begin. It smelled pretty bad. There was a good bit of soot on the strategically placed heat shield surrounding three sides of the thermostat. Now we know why that shield is there. Some small portions of steel shielding were eroded by the short, just gone. I studied some online tutorials to be sure of what I needed. The Appliance Parts Pro brand specific tutorial for changing out the thermostat was very helpful. It was an easy job for someone with all the necessary tools at hand. I confirmed that the Thermal Fuse was bad by doing a continuity test with a multi meter. Dead as a doornail. Tools needed: a Phillips #2 screwdriver, a T-15 Torx driver, a 1/4" nut driver, needle nose pliers, headlamp. I also used a 5/16" nut driver to remove the band clamp on the flexible dryer duct connection in back, so I could clean out the dryer duct work with a vacuum. Don't pass up a chance to do that. I applied a little dielectric grease to all connections. A Milwaukee cordless electric screwdriver with adjustable clutch really speeds up the work. The two T-15 Torx screws that hold up the control panel are a little tricky to engage, because of interference by brackets that hold the panel directly below. I ordered a new Dryer Cycling Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Parts arrived in two days time. It took a couple hours to repair, mainly because the wiring harness was damaged from the short and I had to slip shrink tube insulation down over the four blade connectors to replace some of the burned off wire insulation. Gotta love a handy insulating shrink tube selection. Make sure the four blade-type connectors fit tightly to the thermostat connections. One can tune the female portion of the connectors with a needle nose plier. Make the fit as tight as possible. There is a lot of vibration from the front loading washer below and we now all have a better understanding of what happens when the connections come loose and cause a short circuit.

After turning off the breaker and then unplugging it, I opened the rear panel and reviewed the wiring diagram on the back of the control panel. (thank you Daddy for showing this girl how to read a circuit diagram!) Ohmed all parts along the heating system circuit and all were 0 ohms as they should be, except the heating coil which was infinity. Removed the coil and found it had snapped at one point near the middle. Performed a temporary fix by clearing the charred section of the coil and twisting the two ends together, tightening and cleaning until I got 10.6 ohms across the terminals for the coil. (should be 11.08 ohms per the specs) That got it working in the short term. (enough to at least dry the load that was already wet) Came here since I had such a great experience when my washing machine died a few years ago and the videos and comments here made diagnosing that issue a breeze! Found my model dryer and looked up other people's experiences with this dryer. With their comments in mind, I not only ordered a new heating coil, (plus a spare against future failure) but a new Cycling Thermostat, Thermal Cut-Off Kit, and Thermal Fuse... which accounts for the parts that are nearly 80% of failures of the heating system of this dryer model. Once the parts arrived, (super fast shipping... they were here in two days!) I spent an hour replacing all the parts with my new ones and vacuuming out the interior. I saved the old parts (except the temp-fixed coil) for future use should any of the new parts fail, since they were known good working parts when I took them out.