I used the Appliance Parts Pros d.i.y. video to get some oversight on the repair; ordered the parts (heating element, Hi-Limit T-stat and Dryer Thermal Cut-Off kit).
I unplugged the electric; disconnected the exhaust duct; moved the clothes dryer so that I could remove the back sheet metal panel. The electrical connection at the heater "Stacon" terminal was corroded and broken - an open circuit. This had happen about 10 years before and I was familiar with this problem. After removing the heater I inspected it and noticed that one of the ceramic insulator stand-offs had cracked and it appeared that the heater coil was touching the heater housing (the housing surface was charred in this area).
After receiving the parts mentioned above, I installed them. The damaged wire, I cut back to a good area and spliced it with a crimp (union) connection to the wire (modified) supplied with the Thermal cut-off kit. The Thermal cut-off and the Hi-Limit Thermostat were replaced with new parts as the existing items were 15 years old. I checked the Thermal fuse and Cycling Thermostat with an ohmmeter - these existing parts were good. I test ran the clothes dryer with the air duct connected, back cover off and checked the ampere draw (21 amps at the heater), and the voltage (240 vac). Disconnected the dryer again an put it back together and ran the unit for 10 minutes on hi heat setting - all OK.
Oddly, when I measured the resistance of the old and new heater coil, the resistance measurements were the same, about 9 ohms, cold). The old heater case was charred in the area of the broken insulator stand-off, this condition may have had an effect on the amp draw and/or heat condition to cause the heater terminal wire to part, ???