Whirlpool WP4456654 Oven Thermal Fuse OEM Part

This is for the Whirlpool in-wall double oven GBD307PDS10. No power and the door locked after the shutdown before the self-cleaning cycle was over. I watched some video and this is a known issue the fuses blow during self-cleaning. I opened the door with a 90-degree hook, an easy task. Took doors off (watch video from others), unscrewed from the wall, and made a very small platform. and took the oven out (need two people and take the doors off first. The doors are heavy and you won't lift the oven with the doors on). MAKE SURE THE POWER IS SWITCHED OFF. The wiring diagram says that the fuse on the back for the top oven would be WP9759242, but it actually is WP9759243. And as shown in the videos, the fuse connected to the main board was dead as well. In my oven, it was the WP4456654, not the WP4451042. Oven worked again, BUT I realized that the main wire connection is attached to a Whirlpool part# 8302143 (called suppressor), and the connection of the neutral was loose. it fried the connections and was close to creating a fire !!!. CHECK THE WIRE CONNECTORS BEFORE PUTTING THE OVEN BACK INTO THE WALL. I needed to replace the suppressor AND the terminal block, both were partly fried and damaged. Clean the wire connectors before you put everything together at the terminal block. If you don't know which part you need, order more, and send back what you don't need. I had to purchase parts three times and had to pay to ship three times until I had everything I needed. contact me if you wish, I have made plenty of pictures, but there is no place here to upload them.

Purchased the two fuses from Appliance Parts Pros. I have done this once before so I had built a pedestal to slide the oven out of the cabinet onto the pedestal. This makes a one person job out of the repair. I first killed the power, then unlocked the door with a wire coat hangar (built a short L on the end and slid it over the lock). I removed the doors, removed the screws holding the oven in in the cabinet and slid it out onto the pedestal. I removed the top cover and the back cover from the back side of the oven, replaced the fuses, replaced all of the parts and slid it back into the cabinet. Turned the power back on, monitored the warm up and it all worked fine. Almost an impossible job without building a pedestal to slide the oven in and out of the cavity. With a pedestal built, an easy repair.

After inspecting the unit I noticed the inner oven box had four sections. The center section of the ceiling of the top oven had separated from the right side wall and had fallen to contact the top heating element. The gap created affected the Oven Temp. Sensor which caused the ven to shut off and the code to display. I repaired the ceiling and cleared the code. Problem solved. The parts I ordered the Oven Temperature Sensor and Oven Thermal Fuse which I kept as these parys are common failure parts as per many threads I've read. There replacement would require about ten min. of replacement time.

Ordered the oven thermal fuse and replace it. See Youtube video.

Removed the the top of the oven off and replaced the fuse like I saw in a youtube video.