Whirlpool WP9759242 Electric Oven Thermal Fuse OEM Part

This is for the Whirlpool in-wall double oven GBD307PDS10. No power and the door locked after the shutdown before the self-cleaning cycle was over. I watched some video and this is a known issue the fuses blow during self-cleaning. I opened the door with a 90-degree hook, an easy task. Took doors off (watch video from others), unscrewed from the wall, and made a very small platform. and took the oven out (need two people and take the doors off first. The doors are heavy and you won't lift the oven with the doors on). MAKE SURE THE POWER IS SWITCHED OFF. The wiring diagram says that the fuse on the back for the top oven would be WP9759242, but it actually is WP9759243. And as shown in the videos, the fuse connected to the main board was dead as well. In my oven, it was the WP4456654, not the WP4451042. Oven worked again, BUT I realized that the main wire connection is attached to a Whirlpool part# 8302143 (called suppressor), and the connection of the neutral was loose. it fried the connections and was close to creating a fire !!!. CHECK THE WIRE CONNECTORS BEFORE PUTTING THE OVEN BACK INTO THE WALL. I needed to replace the suppressor AND the terminal block, both were partly fried and damaged. Clean the wire connectors before you put everything together at the terminal block. If you don't know which part you need, order more, and send back what you don't need. I had to purchase parts three times and had to pay to ship three times until I had everything I needed. contact me if you wish, I have made plenty of pictures, but there is no place here to upload them.

I ordered the Thermal Fuse, and it came within two days. I pulled the oven out, took the back off, replaced the fuse, put the back on again, and slide it back into place.

Purchased the two fuses from Appliance Parts Pros. I have done this once before so I had built a pedestal to slide the oven out of the cabinet onto the pedestal. This makes a one person job out of the repair. I first killed the power, then unlocked the door with a wire coat hangar (built a short L on the end and slid it over the lock). I removed the doors, removed the screws holding the oven in in the cabinet and slid it out onto the pedestal. I removed the top cover and the back cover from the back side of the oven, replaced the fuses, replaced all of the parts and slid it back into the cabinet. Turned the power back on, monitored the warm up and it all worked fine. Almost an impossible job without building a pedestal to slide the oven in and out of the cavity. With a pedestal built, an easy repair.

Used a code hanger to release latch to open the door. Followed the instructions in this video. Had to order the Thermal Fuse. and Control Thermal Fuse 4456654 (AP3777386 . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYeb9J09BVU

Saved likely 200-300 dollars on a service call. WATCH the videos on AppliancePartsPros.com. they did a great job and makes it much easier when you are changing the part out yourself (easy fix after viewing).