Whirlpool WP67004151 Refrigerator Dispenser Control Panel Overlay OEM Part

1. Purchased a new Facade. The removal of the old one was relatively easy except that the two screws that hold it in place (behind the spill tray) were rusted (they should have used stainless steel ones) one came out with a vise grip but on the other I had to buy an "Easy Out" tool from Home Depot, once out the unit drops down. Had my wife hold the new unit, swiped the wires from old to new, removed the control board from the old one and installed it on the new one with one screw and cleaned the calcium deposits from the exterior of the water tube with CLR. Unit goes straight in and up then installed the two new screws and washers that I bought from the hardware store for 45 cents. 2. Purchased a new Insert. This was interesting as our ref. is an Admiral and the Insert has been discontinued (does not make any sense) so we ordered the one for the Maytag ,same unit but the insert has five buttons and it says Maytag, functions just the same. 3. Purchased a new light bulb. Works great! Ref looks like new

Replace circuit board and Facade, I didn't realize the facade was broken under the sticker until I got it apart, have to order that part now, circuit board was super easy to replace.

I had initially removed the entire dispenser from the freezer door (which was a very simple operation). Shortly after starting the facade replacement, I realized that the dispenser could have just stayed in the door. Carefully and slowly peel the old facade sticker away. If it splits during the removal, as mine did, the old adhesive will need to be removed. Something like Goo-Gone would be best. I ended up alternating WD-40 and rubbing alcohol. Do NOT use acetone based products. The dispenser is made of a plastic that will soften if exposed to acetone. After the old sticker and glue is gone, carefully align the new facade and set into place being careful not to trap any air bubbles. Note: this product uses excellent glue, and once installation is started, any attempt at repositioning will most likely ruin the sticker.

Some instructions would have been nice. I thought I was getting a full façade, instead it was just an adhesive backed decal. After searching the web I found that I needed to peel off the old decal, which had degraded. After taking of the old decal and the half dozen little remnants with plastic putty knife, I wiped the surface with alcohol. Centering the new decal was tricky. But once I got it on it looked just like new!

I ordered a new facade, activation switch, control circuit board and insert that identifies the buttons & lights. As it turned out, I did not need the circuit board or switch. The problem was caused by the facade which had failed over the buttons. Repair was straight forward: removed the existing facade by removing the two screws prying slightly at the bottom and sliding it downward; disconnected the switch and board wiring plug and removed the existing board. Installed the new board which has but one screw and carefully snapped the mounting dogs over the board. I then reconnected the board and switch wiring, tested, installed the replacement facade by sliding it upward and installing the 2 screws, and finally attached the insert. Special care must be taken when mounting the new control board to the facade so that the board is not damaged or the dogs broken. Printed circuit boards are susceptible to static discharge damage so one must be grounded when working with the board. Oh yeah! don't forget to unplug the refrigerator before starting work. The reason for the 4 star rating instead of 5: perhaps I should have removed the the insert over the buttons which would have revealed the true nature of the problem and I would have not ordered the circuit board. But rather than returning it, I installed it. C'est La Vie!