Whirlpool W10811153 Control Panel (Console/Display Assembly) OEM Part

Maytag Dishwasher (about 5 years old). Some of the buttons had stopped functioning. Then the Start button began choosing whether or not to work. Eventually it would not start at all. Upon removing the control panel, the first thing I noticed was that the brackets that hold the two lower screws were broken. (So this was the reason that the door was so hard to open from the time it was new.) I trouble shot the thermal fuse, the door-latch switches, and inspected the control board trying to find the problem. Everything looked perfect. When I pried the control panel apart with a putty knife, the buttons inside were shiny and new. But I did notice that the ribbon cable connecting the control panel to the control board had a straight line of brown discoloration across nearly all the trace wires, not visible before opening the control panel up. This discoloration could not be cleaned. The part number on this white control panel (both the old and new one) is W10199662. However, when ordering it online, you need to search for part # W10811153. I purchased this item from AppliancePartPros.com because they are the ONLY site that allows you to return electrical parts after installation. I didn't want to get stuck holding a perfectly good $140 part I didn't need just because I opened the box and plugged it in. They also charge NO re-stocking fees. I ordered it early on a Sunday morning. The part arrived Wednesday afternoon. Should it have turned out that I was wrong about which part I needed, I would have returned this part and just purchased a new dishwasher. But I was not wrong. Replacement time was very reasonable. Difficulty was between easy and moderate, just take your time and don't force anything. Dishwasher works better than new. Very satisfied customer.

I read the technical instructions and did a cursory control panel inspection and "ohmed" out the nonresettable fusable link. All were good, so I disconnected the front panel ribbon cable per instructions and the drain motor ran as expected, indicating a front panel short/failure. The replacement panel fixed the problem and the dishwasher is running.

Since everything is in the door, it is not necessary to pull unit fron ubder cabinet If you're careful, you don't even have to kill the power. With the door open there is only power on the door -nterlock switch. 1) Removed 6 screws using allen wrench (hex key) - 4 on the edges, 2 on the door-interlock mechanism. 2) Removed control panel assembly from front, being careful not to yank any wires. 3) Checked power continuity at interlock switch with volt meter; it was OK, so problem had to be in control panel. 4) Made notes and took pictures of disassembly sequence. Removed ribbon cable from logic unit, connector just pulls off (carefully) . Everything else mounts with plastic tabs and "fingers" so it comes apart with gentle pressure. 5) Ordered new control panel late Wednesday afternoon. It arrived Friday morning!! 6) fFrst I attached the ribbon cabler to the control box. 7) Finger guard on door handle is attached to control panel, but is not part of panel. It attaches with the only screw that does not require a hex key. Moved finger guard to new control panel.. mounter other parts, door interlock switch and control logic box and cover. They snap in easily. 8) re-assembled using my notes, closed the door, and it ran perfectly again.

Bought a new control panel, when taken apart you could see the ribbon was burned out.

Replaced control panel.