Whirlpool 12112425 Pump And Drive Belt Kit OEM Part

The washer was on, and I heard a faint humming sound in the laundry room. I went in and opened the washer and it was full of soapy water in the middle of its cycle and was not agitating. I also smelled a faint burning smell. At this point I figured the problem was a bad motor, as the washer is more than 20 years old. I have fixed it twice before, because the first time, the repairman said I should keep this washer going as long as possible. It was made to last with a metal drum, unlike newer models that have a plastic drum that gets ruined when the bearing heats up, so you end up having to get a whole new washer. Additionally, newer models have expensive and fragile computer controls that add features you don't need. I looked up the symptoms, and eliminated the other possibilities, such as the door switch, which was easy to figure out. I just opened and closed the door during the cycle and listened for the buzzing sound. Additionally, I found in some posts that some washers have separate water pump motors and drive motors, but, after viewing repair videos for this model, I could see that one motor drives both. At this point it was clearly a drive motor problem. Since the washer is old, and we have heard the belts squeaking recently, I decided to change the belts too. I also replaced the motor mount rollers and springs, because I know that springs fatigue and don't work as well after several years. That way, the belt tension would improve. I replaced the motor and other parts using the videos on this site. They were very clear and helpful. my dog helped, and we found a live mouse and a nest on top of the old motor under the motor cover. The mouse jumped out as I was tilting the washer onto its back. My dog tried to warn me, but I didn't listen. This episode led to a trip to the home center to get mouse traps!

I could hear the motor hum when I tried any of the wash cycles. But the washer would not agitate. I removed both belts and could turn the transmission by hand which told me it was not mechanically stuck so it had to be the motor. Before I ordered a new, I watched the video on how to replace the motor. The video was spot on showing how to do it. Removing the original motor was not very hard. I did it the same way as shown in the video. The problem I ran into was trying to get the set screw out of the pulley. I needed to use Liquid Wrench on the set screw to free it. The motor and the pulley were original to the washer. Once the set screw was loose I was able to replace the motor and reinstall the pulley on the new motor shaft. I connected the wires from the washer to the new connector that was supplied with the motor and set that away from the motor. I reinstalled the new motor like it showed in the video. I started the screw in front 1st then the 2 screw in the back I used a 5/16 socket with an extension so I could get better leverage on the back screws. Now I plugged in the connector to the motor. I also replaced the drive and pump belts, because they were old. I reassembled the front panel on the washer and connected the hoses and drain line. As a test I did a small load of clothes just in case some thing did not work right. It worked perfectly. I did 3 medium size loads of clothes to give the motor a chance to break in before doing a large heavy load. Again it worked perfectly. Its now ready for normal use.

I replaced the timer for the fix but also replaced the belts as they were 22 years old. Great experience dealing with Appliance Parts Pros. I would definitely use them for any future endeavors.

Looked it up in "How Everything Works in Your Home and What to Do when it Doesn't", after hearing a service call plus part would be $150. Checked to see if mine was an 'easy access belt' washer by design (it was,) so I ordered the belt. It arrived in 2 days, and came with the manufacturer's instructions for doing the repair. Putting the belt on was really quick, but two years of sitting unused had stiffened up parts of the mechanism, and my dear neighbor added some belt dressing to the belt to allow it to work harder to get the machine humming once more. We ran several loads through after that and, voila!, it was fixed for $22. I am a most happy camper!

1. Sleeve for input, Injector valve, nozzle and seal for input fixed this problem. Probably the main part that was the trouble was a deformed Injector Valve which is a rubber tube with an internal retention groove at the wide part that grips the Nozzle. The Sleeve and the Nozzle are hard plastic parts that basically looked fine, but I replaced them anyway while I was in there. Additionally I replaced the rubber Seal for Input which seals the plastic input fitting to the tub just to make sure no back splash was getting through there. The input fitting at the tub is a "turn 90 deg to release" type arrangement. 2. Replaced Water Inlet Valve assembly to cure occasional water found in tub after sitting. Solenoid valves in general can be trouble when they get some tiny debris or sediment in them. They'll open just fine, but when they close they sometimes can't seal perfectly due to material in the seat area. Hence the weeping that'll very slowly cause rising water in the tube when just sitting. Scary when you're away for awhile. Best to shut off valves at wall! Also replaced 2 belts underneath just for good measure.