Whirlpool WPW10605057 Pump And Motor Assembly OEM Part

I think I could have just replaced the pump, but I chose to replace the whole assembly. The part is more expensive, but all the gaskets, etc, that come with it are new and that made sense to change all at once. I was able to change this in about 30 minutes, without removing the washer from the under-counter space. I did remove the front door panel, but in retrospect that was unnecessary and probably cost me more time than it saved. Empty the washer of parts, remove the front access panel. You can remove the drain pipe, drain pump/wire, turbidity sensor (wires stay attached), unhook wires from retaining loops, and release the hold-down clips all from the front bottom access. As you take the old assembly out from the top, there are three other wires to remove. Smart to note the specific locations, but if you forget they are keyed and can't be replaced in the wrong hols. Unless you REALLY try. ;) On my washer, there was a (stone-ish?) motor damper that needed to be removed from the old part and installed on the new. two bolts, no big deal, but it wasn't noted anywhere and for a moment I was concerned that I was missing a part on the new assembly. All good tho. Now just reverse. wires on, assembly in, hold-downs secured, turbidity and drain pump reinstalled, wires clipped in pace, squeeze the drain pipe and pipe clamp back on. ran a few rinse only cycles, checked for leaks, replace front door and access panel. That was over a week ago and we're about 30 wash cycles into the new parts. All is well.

First failure was just out of warranty. All caused by a very poor design in the circulation pump motor (I'm told) (the drain pump was fine and not replaced). In the past the repairs were all done by manufacturer's rep and we always had to wait for the part, pay for visit #1 to diagnose and visit #2 to repair, etc. So this time I purchased the entire assembly from APP's.com. You can buy only the circulation pump, but it is more expensive than this entire (superset) assembly and much harder to replace. If you buy this entire assembly, counter to all of the demo videos in YouTube including those from this website, it can be replaced without removing the dishwasher (and without turning it on its side or back). You have to take out the racks, the impeller, drain filter, etc. Then reach under the DW and: 1) release the drain hose (pliers); 2) detach the drain pump and the temperature sensor (hand-unscrew the entire assemblies about a quarter-turn each taking care to release the clip that holds the drain pump in place), release the levers that clamp the assembly to the bottom of the dishwasher (3 of them; one each at 0, 120, and 240 degrees on the circle), and pop the assembly up through the bottom of the dishwasher. Keep track of the electrical connections swap out the weight, and put it all back the way it was. Very simple. No need to turn off the water to the system but a good idea to shut off power. Works like a charm. I will buy another assembly in 9 months to await the next inevitable failure and replace it for minimal down-time. And I will consider never to buy another Whirlpool product again. The only real drawback was that the part was backordered for 6 weeks. I am sure this is because the failure rate is high and the part is in high demand. APP's.com was very good about communicating status. Will do business again!

First, I installed a new control board, (mother board). When removing the old one, the back side had a melted area in the plastic. This helped restore the cycle selections on the keypad. Then I noticed the machine was not filling completely with water, and checked the water inlet fill valve. It was plugged with sediment. I ordered a new one and also ordered a high temperature thermostat. I installed both of them and the machine had no problem getting water. I replaced the high limit thermostat as a precaution because of the melted plastic on the outside of the old control board. The machine still had a problem circulating water and the float switch was burned out. I replaced the switch and the machine was running through cycles and leaving soap residue on the side of the door. The dishes were also not getting clean enough. Then, I noticed the machine would only work on a light cycle and no water was circulating through the top rack at all. I then ordered the circulation pump and motor figuring the pump was going out and was very weak pushing water through the machine. The pump arrived the next day after I placed the order. I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet to install it because there is a wire in the back of the dishwasher that has to be removed from the pump. It is easier to access from the rear of the machine with it out of the cabinet so you can see what you are doing. The drain pump also has to be removed and it is very easy to remove. It just twists off of the assembly. My drain pump was still working and I did not need to order a new one. I used my old drain pump, and installed it on the new circulation pump and motor. I installed the new pump motor very quickly. First I cleaned the area around the opening in the dishwasher where the pump motor goes. Before installing the pump motor, I used some vegetable oil to lubricate the rubber that goes around it. While installing, I placed it into the opening and when it went into the opening it requires a little pressure once it sits into the opening up to the cabinet. I did not install the concrete plate that is on the bottom of the unit until the motor and pump were in the opening. The concrete plate is on the bottom of the old motor and you have to remove it to reinstall on the new motor. It is held on with two screws. The concrete plate is for sound proofing. If you wait to install the concrete plate after the pump and motor are in, it makes the pump and motor easier to install. There are three white large plastic twistable clamps holding the pump and motor in the machines cabinet. You have to turn them inward when removing the motor, and when installing a new motor you have turn them outward. These clamps hold the motor in place and help create the solid seal from the rubber that goes around the pump so it does not leak. After I was done, I reinstalled the dishwasher and checked for leaks. There were no leaks. After reinstalling the dishwasher, I then realized there was no heat from the heating element and when running the high temperature wash or sani-rinse cycles they were not working. At the end of the cycle, the sanitized light was flashing. This I fixed quickly by pressing three cycle buttons on the control panel three times and then pressed them three times again and again another three times. I just let the machine go through the diagnostic cycle and when finished ran the regular cycle. The regular cycle ran as it should. I had full use of the dishwasher again on all cycles with plenty of water spray on the top rack. There have been no more incidents with soap residue left in the dishwasher at the end of the cycle sticking to the side of the door. My high temperature wash and sani rinse cycles work again. My dishes are clean again and the pump and motor fixed the final problem. All of this happened on my Kitchen Aid dishwasher that is only about 3 years old. I was going to buy a new machine for about $850.00 plus the cost to install. These parts I put in myself with no service call were less than half the cost of a new machine. I use my dishwasher a lot and it is now fixed.

I removed the drain pump, pulled out the sump assembly, transferred the turbidity sensor and the other wires to the new sump assembly, put it back in, and reattached the drain pump. This is the third time I have replaced the circulating pump on my several year old KitchenAid dishwasher. This time, I decided to replace the entire sump assembly because the pump itself was about the same price (and I could salvage some other spare parts just in case). Because I was concerned about the water level and some other details, I also removed and cleaned out the inlet valve, so in my case, it took longer than it strictly needed to take. It would be nice if the impeller were available separately from the motor -- in all three cases on this dishwasher (and twice on a previous KitchenAid dishwasher) the pump impeller failed (the brass thread on the plastic impeller that connects to the motor shaft either came loose from the plastic impeller or the threads connecting to the motor shaft stripped out, and the impeller either just sat there while the motor ran, or wedged the motor in a way that caused it to burn out). I think it would add maybe 15 or twenty minutes to the job to replace the impeller (what should be perhaps a $10 part) rather than replacing the circulating pump, or less than an hour more than replacing the entire sump assembly. A better-built motor (or at least one not designed so it should be allowed to cool 10 minutes for every 20 minutes it is run -- on a dishwasher that frequently runs it for quite a bit longer than an hour straight) and better impeller would make these things much more reliable.

Washer would fill, controller made some clicking noises but no washing, then it would empty. Hoped it was circulation pump & not control board so figured I'd roll the dice & order pump assembly. Part arrived 4 days later, installed it in 30 minutes & it worked like a charm! Thanks Parts Pros!