Whirlpool WP211232 Washer Outer Tub Seal OEM Part

This was some repair! My SG1000 stackable is over 30 years old and was purchased second hand. I've replaced many parts in the dryer section, but besides a water inlet, this was my first repair to the washer. All of a sudden it started making a terrible noise and was not agitating the clothes. The spin cycle worked fine. I first replaced the two belts on the bottom, but when I removed the old ones I realized they did not look terribly worn and weren't the cause. Many stories on here indicated agitation could be a transmission problem and was NOT a brake issue. As my Maytag has the older style helical transmission, if it was the transmission, it is not repairable (only replaceable). So I took a chance on replacing the mounting stem, tub seals, and bearings and this did work as the washer is agitating again. The repair was quite laborious due to age and required me ordering additional parts along the way, such as the outer tub rubber seal. Almost every screw or bolt was corroded, and, despite buying the spanner wrench, I had to cut off both the lock nut and the mounting stem with a Dremel to start the cut and then a chisel to knock the parts loose. Both were so terribly bound up they would have never turned. The old sleeve bearing had to be chiseled off as well. The old mounting stem had an inner spring and retaining ring, but this design is superseded by a new rubber washer on the new style stem. Cleaned rust off with a file and wire brush, carefully scraped off decades of deposits in the tubs and vacuumed it all up. Putting it back together was not difficult. Replacing the outer tub rubber seal and the bracket was the most difficult step. I had to use a mallet to knock the tub lid down to match the old seal line otherwise the tub rim on the top panel wouldn't clear the inner tub -- this took two tries to get it right. BTW, I am a single woman who is good with tools and was able to do all this by myself.

I removed the front cover and saw water a rusted out drum cover clamp. Water gushed out at this point when i operated the machine. I ordered a new clamp and seal from Appliance Parts Pros, which arrived quickly. I wire-brushed the drum and it's cover clean, in the sealing area and installed the new seal and clamp. NOTE do not set the cover down all the way down, or the tub will not "spin". Leave 3/8- 1/2" clearance between the top of the tub and the upper cover. I chose to fix my old washer, because the reviews I read about new washers say newer machines take 30-60 minutes to do a load and often do not clean properly. Before I found Appliance Parts Pros, the local appliance parts store owner would grin as he said "Sorry NO discount" , because he had no competition. Thanks APP!

We replaced the damper pads and the unbalance switch and decided to replace the belts while we were doing the other repairs because our Maytag SE1000 stack w/d was almost 30 years old. Replacing the belts was the easy part, no tools and just a couple of minutes to put on.

Replaced seal and went ahead and changed tub kit and seal while I had it down.

Replaced the seal and the washer would not spin on spin cycle. The top cover was pushed to far down and was making contacts with the inner tub, not allowing it to spin. Move the top cover up about 3/8 of an inch and spun inner tub by hand to make sure it was not rubbing. Ran a load and saw that it was leaking. Found the clamp was not placed correctly on the seal. Placed clamp correctly and still had a leak. Put a bead of silicon on the seal and installed, let it sit for 24 hrs and then tried again. No more leaks.