Whirlpool WP315772 Idler Arm Sleeve OEM Part

Fix was trivial. Took less than 30 minutes to change the old parts out. This dryer is about 20 years old and now we hope to get a few more years out of it.

First replaced the drum rollers...that wasn't it..took dryer back apart and spun the belt tension wheel by hand (should have done this the first time I took the dryer apart) and it squeaked. so I ordered the full parts: wheel, idler arm, idler spring, arm sleeve, E ring..Put it back together and whoa..no more squealing!!

I replaced the motor and all other moving components along with the felt drum seals.drum glides and drive belt. The wiring instruction is where i had the most problems. Because my wiring had only 4 wires in the harness not 5, and one was a different color then the instructions call out, I believe was because it might have been and older model. the instruction called for a gray wire but mine was white with a blue piggy back wire attached. but after finding a few videos on line i figured that the white wire was indeed the gray wire and the piggy back wire was the 5th wire meant to be attached to the blue terminal.

Took the front panel off (the door front), disconnected the connector to the door switch and used a wooden clothespin to bypass the door switch. Turned on the dryer to locate loud squeaking sound and found it was coming from the motor area. When I started to take the blower section apart from the motor, that is when I saw the "blower wheel" slipped off the motor shaft. The blower wheel has a "C" clip retainer and compression ring to keep it snug on the motor shaft (but it was loose). Now I also know why there was a lot of lint on the clothes and not on the lint trap filter. The blower wheel was not really turning on the shaft. I bought this Maytag dryer back in 1981 and the only thing done so far was the replacement of failed "dryer gas valve coils" back in 2001. So, I cleaned up the inside of the dryer (removed all the loose lint and bugs, and stuff). Checked over all the parts inside the dryer to see what was worn out and made a list of parts to replace. Total cost was less than $200, but when I got done it was as good as a new clothes dryer. The replacement parts were: a new belt, blower wheel (main problem), dryer gas valve coil kit (backups -- just in case), Front rubber seal for the door, Two -- dryer drum felt seal, blower seal, high temperature adhesive for the felt seal and blower seal. Everything else was good. Motor and its parts. I cleaned up the old grease and greased the motor bearings and other parts that I removed the old grease from.

At first i just bought the belt, started dryer and off came the belt, and yes it was in place,looking at the idler arm it had a lot off back and forth movement so i ordered the whole assembly but the spring which no one has.put it all together again but drum barely turned.. so back apart and belt was in place. took the idler spring out cut 4 loops off it re did the end so it would hook on idler arm.and that did the trick.runs like new.