Whirlpool WPW10455268 Sump OEM Part

Pulling the dishwasher, it was obvious we had a slow leak under it. We had a slow leak from the diverter motor area in the sump. Sure enough, it looked like the gasket around a shaft had to be the culprit. The gasket was attached to the sump assembly, or the motor. We took a chance and ordered a new sump assembly for a mere $90 and went for it. All of the trays had to come out. The lower spray arms. Then the distribution runs to the middle rack arms and upper rack arms. Finally, the original sump assembly could be removed - it's a formed plastic part with a rubber seal, held in place with three rotating clips. Taking that out was easy enough. 4 motors had to come off the original sump assembly - disconnect all of their blade-type quick connections, free their wires from retention clips. You'll want a T15 and T10 torx bit to remove that diverter motor. The rest were either quarter-turn screw-on connections, aside from a spring loaded band around the main waste hose and then the main motor that had a rubber hose attached with a crimped band. This last band had to be un-crimped to release the hose. All of the motors, a sensor or two, and retention clips had to be transferred to the new sump assembly. That crimped band for the main motor didn't look like it would hold up if re-crimped, so we picked up a worm-drive band clamp from the hardware store. With all but one motors reattached (the last one won't clear the opening for the sump assembly in the bottom of the washer tub) the assembly fit into the hole easily enough. It has an alignment pin towards the front, though I had marked the tub and old sump with sharpie reference marks, just in case. Alignment was easy, but it took some muscle to compress the rubber gasket to allow the sump clips to seat the assembly. With that in place, I just had to reattach and secure wires to the right motors - I had taken a photo first and all wires are color-coded per motor. Reconnecting the waste line was simple. The supply line did NOT want to seal well. It took a couple of attempts to make sure it wasn't leaking, along with running the washer while standing upright and tightening again, to be sure. If only manufacturers used metal fittings instead of cheap plastic ones... I set the trays back in their glide hardware, set the filter and cover back in the sump, and then dropped in the lower spray arms.

ORDERED NEW SUMP AND DIVERTER MOTOR, THE SHAFT ON THE DIVERTER MOTOR FELT A LITTLE ROUGH SO I WENT AHEAD AND REPLACED IT, THE SUMP REPLACEMENT WENT FAIRLY EASY. HAD TO MAKE A TRIP TO THE HARDWARE STORE FOR A HOSE CLAMP. ONE HOSE ON THE SUMP HAS A CLAMP THAT IS NOT REUSEABLE. YOU SHOULD ALSO ORDER THIS CLAMP. IT IS NARROW AND A REGULAR HOSE CLAMP WILL NOT WORK.

Changed sump to replace diverter motor washer. Appliance parts pros made finding the repair part I needed very simple and easy. I ordered the part I needed on Tuesday and had it in my hands on Wednesday and that was with the cheapest shipping! I hope I dont need to come back to this website soon, but when another appliance breaks it will be my first stop!

Replaced the sump.

All that really needed to be replaced was the seal on the diverter shaft. The seal is in the sump. Unfortunately the seal cannot be purchased individually and you must buy a complete new sump. I purchased a new sump and a pump grommet. The pump grommet probably did not need to be replaced but given the amount of work it took to get to that point it didn’t make sense not to replace it. Using the video on the website for the sump replacement made the job was very easy once I got the dishwasher removed from the cabinet. The video really made everything much easier. Knowing which way to turn things and what little catch had to be released was very valuable. The job took me about 45 minutes to replace everything and have the dishwasher back in place. I had to replace the clamp on the pump hose as the video shows. You might want to be prepared with the clamp before you start the job. OneNote on tools, you will need a torx driver