Whirlpool WP3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse OEM Part

I did the recommended checks of parts as listed on the website. I would recommend as one other person did but I did not listen the first time and that is to check all the parts don't stop at the first part you find bad. As I had to make two orders paying shipping twice because I thought I found a bad part when testing the igniter but the thermal fuse was also bad and since in a different part of the machine I did not take the time to check it, bad mistake. Also one tool mentioned in the video that I used to take off the dryer lid was a paint scraper it was thin enough to push in the plastic clips (in the correct place listen to video instruction) so the top would come off the machine and not break the clips. The repair was not hard if you follow directions. I used an multi meter set to Ohms to test the dryer parts: igniter, flame sensor, coils and as I found out the thermal fuse (always check anyway). After watching the videos on parts replacement the repairs were generally easy to do. The repair for the thermal fuse was less then 10 minutes very easy, it is really just taking out screws, taking off the 2 electrical clips from the bad fuse then exchange the fuse one screw, reattaching the 2 clips and screwing the back cover on the machine The other parts (I replaced the igniter and coils) took up to 30 minutes to replace and put everything back together. The belt spring roller was the hardest part because of where it is and how you have to hold it while putting the belt through it and onto the motor wheel.

Our 19 year old Whirlpool dryer quit heating. After checking the thermal fuse, I found the ignitor electrically open. I bought an ignitor at a local store as there was a national holiday the next day and I did not want the dryer inoperative waiting several days for shipping. I can say AppliancePartsPros is MUCH cheaper for the identical Whirlpool genuine part. While changing the ignitor, I noticed there was an excessive amount of lint in the dryer, which was caused by worn drum seals. I ordered drum seals, a new drive belt, the foam seals for the exhaust duct and new nylon drum bearing set. These were delivered promptly, but unfortunately the 2-piece nylon drum bearing set had only 1 piece. I went on line, used the chat function and was promptly taken care of. The new part arrived fairly quickly, was correct and I installed it. The most difficult part of the project was the rear drum seal which must be glued to the drum. I removed the old seal and sanded off the dried glue. I then set the drum up on a work table, blocked from rolling off with 2x4s, so I could rotate it in place. The new seal needs to be stretched to make it around the drum circumference, so I used small wood clamps to hold it in place around the drum. I then pushed back the fabric, applied a small bead of glue to the drum surface, gave it about a minute to air dry, then repositioned the seal. I worked my way around the drum, rotating it on my work table. The seal installed nicely. Pay attention when you position the drum during final assembly so that the rear support rollers are in place and the seal correctly circles the stationary back wall for the drum. You can check the seal for folding bouth outside and inside. 2 people are advised for this step. One last note, the installation of the drive belt is little tricky, so photograph the belt path through the tensioner and motor drive pulley before you remove the old belt.

Background: Roper Electric Dryer model REX6634RQ0 purchased new in early 2006 by my wife. Dryer use profile is low to moderate as it was used by only one person (working from home) from 2006 to late 2007 then moved and stored in a dry basement until mid 2009. Moved and used by primarily just two people (plus occasional children visits) from mid-2009 thru late 2011 with three moves involved with in that time. Then stored in a dry shipping container until moved again in 2013. The multiple physical moves may have contributed to the issue I later diagnose in a dryer not heavily used in a typical family profile. Dryer door switch stopped working about three months ago but was switch was set in the on position so no issue for wife to turn it off via the timer dial to be safe (and keep a curious cat from entering the moving dryer.) During a recent use the dryer would not shut off via timer, timer did not advance and clothing was in for about an hour to cook! Luckily no fire resulted. Then upon the next use the dryer would not start. The timer dial also exhibited a very faint humming or buzzing sound when engaging any of the four selections. Investigation: Disconnected dryer and removed back panels console upper and back plate and opened up top panel to access dryer door switch. All open panel trouble shooting performed with room closed off to other people, children, and a curious cat along with disconnecting the dryer during troubleshooting. 1.Jumped (connected) the door switch pins and no difference. Dryer would not start. Tested door switch with a multimeter and confirmed it was locked in the door closed (dryer on) position. 2.Removed thermal fuse on exhaust and tested with multi-meter. Showed as blown / broken so 196 degrees was exceeded. Most likely during that last use the temperature was just under the fuse breaking temperature while the dryer was running and intaking cool air but after shut off the temperature spiked over the 196 degrees and broke the fuse. 3.Jumped the thermal fuse connectors and dryer was able to be started and would run. However, timer still exhibited same faint buzzing sound. And now the heater ran on all four timer selections including "No Heat Fluff". Wife confirmed that "No Heat Fluff" was never supposed to heat even to low levels. 4. Researched Appliance Parts Pros forums for similar issues. Found most likely cause would be heater coils grounding out to chassis. This often would be caused by lint build up on the coils grounding out the coils. 5. Pulled the coil out and found that the coil section that connected between the "back" and "front" of the coil panel had shifted down because the ceramic support at that point had worn down within the metal frame. I was able to revise the coil at that point by pulling the coil off the ceramic support and re-positioning it to better tension the ceramic support in its hole in the metal panel. After doing this, tested the dryer and the heater functioned correct on all cycles and the timer no longer had the faint humming or buzzing sound. The faint humming or buzzing sound was apparently the timer being energized by the grounded coil shorting electricity to the timer. The best estimate of root cause for the ceramic support wearing in the metal frame and then shifting within the coil frame, would be from the multiple moves that have had this unit transported hundreds of miles and experiencing transport shaking in excess what a typical unit would experience. I ordered a new thermal fuse and door switch to get the dryer back into full operation.

I suspected the gas valve coils as I’ve replaced them before but this time it did not solve the problem. Luckily I ordered all five parts that are related to the heating function including the coils, thermal fuse, igniter kit, flame sensor, and finally the cycling thermostat. I figured while I had the dryer completely apart it’s probably a good idea to replace everything at once since one of the other parts may have failed shortly after. With all five new parts installed I gave her a test spin and she literally fired right up! I only had two challenges during the process, first, the dryer drum will not stay in position until you put the front panel back on so I used a bungee cord to keep it in place while I reattached the drive belt. Second, the one screw that holds the igniter bracket in place is in a bit of an awkward place, had to use a very small crescent wrench to get in there. Additional tips: Disconnect from the power outlet and turn off the gas valve behind the dryer, to open the top panel you can use a putty knife on the two front corners to release the clips or just give the top panel a nice tug forward at the rear left and right corner then simply pull the front of the panel up, change all parts while you’re in there, vacuum out all lint and debris, change the vent duct if bent or out of shape. The overall repair was actually pretty easy, I’d say give it a shot as a repair service could run a couple of hundred dollars and new dryers are getting pretty expensive these days. Good luck!

I realized my load of laundry was still wet after a normal drying cycle. My first action was to turn the dryer on (2010 gas Maytag centennial) and open the front port to look at the ignitor coil. It never turned orange so I knew there must be a problem with the primary circuit. I shut off the dryer, disconnected the power, pulled it away from the wall, shutoff the gas, and removed the back panel. I then disconnected the wires for the thermal fuse and checked its resistance with a multimeter. When it didn't read 0 ohms and instead read "OL" for "open line", I knew I had found at least one issue and I'd start by ordering a replacement for that. I knew there could potentially be other issues, but I wasn't about to start ordering random parts without acknowledging the first issue. In addition to the coil not turning on, my dryer had a problem with the door switch for a long time. Fixing it wasn't a priority because it had failed closed. This made it so the dryer would still turn on (because it always thought the door was closed), but it wouldn't turn off the drum when you opened the door mid-cycle or allow the drum light to turn on. This was a minor annoyance, but now that I was ordering an important component to getting the dryer to heat, I thought it was the ideal time to also replace that piece as well. Once the parts arrived, I installed the new components with no issue. The website clearly identified that the parts were replacements for my existing part numbers and that turned out to be the case as expected. Before putting the back plate back on I plugged the power back in, opened the gas line, and turned the dryer on to a heat cycle. I peered through the view port on the front of the dryer and watched the ignitor coil glow orange and the flame kick on. I also tested the door switch by opening the door with the dryer running and the drum stopped and the light turned on as it should. After seeing that I cancelled the cycle, disconnected the power once again to prevent the possibility of shorting any components, and finished reassembling the dryer and placed it back in its compartment. Then I successfully ran 8 or 9 loads because my laundry had been piling up for the 6 days I had to wait for the parts to arrive. The dryer works like new again!